Hello all readers. Today we will consider the option of building a powerful switching power supply that provides an output current of up to 60 Amps at a voltage of 12 Volts, but this is far from the limit; if desired, you can pump out currents of up to 100 Amps, this will give you an excellent starting and charger.
The circuit is a typical push-pull half-bridge network, step-down switching power supply, this is the full name of our block. our favorite microcircuit IR2153 is used as a master oscillator. The output is supplemented with a driver, essentially a regular repeater based on complementary pairs BD139/140. Such a driver can control several pairs of output switches, which will make it possible to remove more power, but in our case there is only one pair of output transistors. 
In my case, powerful n-channel field-effect transistors of type 20N60 with a current of 20 Amperes are used, the maximum operating voltage for these switches is 600 volts, they can be replaced with 18N60, IRF740 or similar, although I don’t really like the 740s because of the upper voltage limit of everything at 400 volts, but they will work. The more popular IRFP460 are also suitable, but the board is designed for keys in the TO-220 package. 
A unipolar rectifier with a middle point is assembled in the output part, in general, to save the transformer window, I advise you to install a regular diode bridge, but I didn’t have any powerful diodes, instead I found Schottky assemblies in a TO-247 package of type MBR 6045, with a current of 60 Amps, and installed them , to increase the current through the rectifier, I connected three diodes in parallel, so our rectifier can easily pass currents up to 90 Amperes, a completely normal question arises - there are 3 diodes, each 60 Amperes, why 90? The fact is that these are Schottky assemblies, in one case there are 2 diodes of 30 amperes each connected with a common cathode. If anyone doesn’t know, these diodes are from the same family as the output diodes in computer power supplies, only their currents are much higher. 
Let's take a superficial look at the principle of operation, although I think for many everyone is clear. 
When the unit is connected to a 220 Volt network through the R1/R2/R3 chain and the diode bridge, the main input electrolytes C4/C5 are smoothly charged, their capacity depends on the power of the power supply, ideally a capacitance of 1 μF per 1 watt of power is selected, but some variation is possible in one direction or another, capacitors must be designed for a voltage of at least 400 Volts. 
Through resistor p5, power is supplied to the pulse generator. Over time, the voltage on the capacitors increases, the supply voltage for the ir2153 microcircuit also increases, and as soon as it reaches a value of 10-15 Volts, the microcircuit starts up and begins to generate control pulses, which are amplified by the driver and supplied to the gates of the field-effect transistors, the latter will operate at a given frequency, which depends on the resistance of resistor r6 and the capacitance of capacitor c8.
Of course, voltage appears on the secondary windings of the transformer, and as soon as it is of sufficient magnitude, the composite transistor KT973 opens, through the open transition of which power is supplied to the relay winding, as a result of which the relay will operate and close contact S1 and the mains voltage will already be supplied to the circuit not through resistors R1, R2, R3 and on the relay contacts.. 
This is called a soft start system, more precisely a delay when turning on, by the way, the relay response time can be adjusted by selecting a capacitor C20, the larger the capacitance, the longer the delay. 
By the way, at the moment the first relay operates, the second one also operates; before it operates, one end of the transformer’s network winding was connected to the main power supply through resistor R13. 
Now the device is already operating in normal mode, and the unit can be overclocked to full power.
In addition to powering the soft start circuit, the 12 Volt low-current output can power a cooler to cool the circuit.
The system is equipped with a short circuit protection function at the output. Let's consider the principle of its operation.
R11/R12 acts as a current sensor; in the event of a short circuit or overload, a voltage drop of sufficient magnitude is formed across them to open the low-power thyristor T1; when it opens, it short-circuits the plus supply for the generator microcircuit to ground, so the microcircuit is not supplied with supply voltage and it stops working. Power is supplied to the thyristor not directly, but through an LED; the latter will light when the thyristor is open, indicating the presence of a short circuit. 
In the archive, the printed circuit board is slightly different, designed to receive bipolar voltage, but I think converting the output part to unipolar voltage will not be difficult.
Archive for the article; download…
That's all, I was with you as always - Aka Kasyan
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Here, below, is the electrical circuit diagram of the UZP-P-12-10 starting and charging device. It cannot be said that it is very good; there are several shortcomings in it that need to be eliminated in order for the charger to work well. So, let's start in order...
1. Diodes, V1-V4, as well as thyristor V5 are installed on a common radiator through mica spacers. There have been cases when, by accidentally touching the back of the starter-charger with a piece of iron, a thyristor or diode crashed due to a short circuit.
It’s easy to eliminate this drawback - you need to take plastic plugs from Coca-Cola or some other drink and close the threaded connections of the diodes and thyristor with them. They fit tightly into the radiator and this problem will no longer bother you.
2. Short circuit protection. This car charger is not done very well. The problem appears when voltage sags occur on the 220V network. The circuit exits its mode and a glitch occurs, causing the short-circuit protection to trip.
Well, imagine the situation: you put the battery on charge and went away for several hours, well, you can’t sit and look at it. Suddenly your neighbor in the garage turns on the welding machine and starts “cooking” something. Short circuit protection is triggered and charging of your battery stops.
I propose the following way out of this situation - you can adjust the short circuit protection; I marked the elements that are responsible for this with a pencil (R1, C1, C2). But, if you fail to do this, you can turn it off altogether by removing transistor V6.
It’s also not worth remaining without protection; an accidental short circuit of the terminals means there is no thyristor. Instead, you can put an automatic machine in the charging circuit, such as AZP-30, and adjust its operation current to 10 A.
3. Protection against incorrect connection of battery terminals. This device does not have it, and in vain. It is also needed, otherwise by confusing + with -, you can ruin the battery, and this is in the best case, and if you leave it in this state for a long time, it can simply break.
The easiest way out, in my opinion, is to install a diode with a rated current of 10A or more, for example D242. The diode, in this circuit, must be placed in the charging circuit, immediately after the thyristor V5.
Some people ask why it was necessary to wind 4 secondary windings, and then connect them in some strange way, because they could have done with just one?
No, everything is correct, because it is also a starting-charger and a large current is needed. This means that the windings had to be wound with thick wire, which is very inconvenient. Therefore, it was decided to make 4 windings and parallel them.
That's all, make the above modifications and the UZP-P-12-10 starting charger will serve you for a long time and reliably.
As for the repair of this starter-charger, it is quite reliable. And the thinnest place in this circuit is the thyristor. But, if you make the above improvements, then this problem will not affect you. If anyone has other options for improving this scheme, please send them, we will be happy to help.
And a few more suggestions regarding the use of this device. In the summer, and many car enthusiasts mainly drive in the summer (during the warm season), I practically don’t use it as a charger; the battery is recharged from the generator. But for powering the compressor, for inflating tires (so as not to drain the battery), for inflating children's pools, etc. - a wonderful thing. Those. I use it as a power supply for a compressor: the compressor consumes about 10 Amps at 12 V, which is more than enough...
Well, in winter, especially in severe frosts, when the garage is cold and the oil has frozen, the battery capacity is not enough - it helps a lot. At the same time, I threw carabiners onto the AB terminals - and the starter turns much more fun..
Of course, if the battery is already old and does not hold a charge, it is not worth leaving the garage using a starting charger, unless you drive from house to house... The battery should always be in order, but how to check this - see
A decrease in the car's battery charge will lead to problems starting the engine. In order to ensure the functionality of the battery, the car owner can use different devices. One of these is.
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A simple starting-charger for a car battery is designed to ensure that the engine starts when the car’s battery is completely discharged. Using the ROM, the consumer can replenish the battery charge level and start the internal combustion engine when the battery is critically discharged. Traditional chargers only allow you to increase the charge of the device.
Depending on the model of the starting device for the car, its circuit may have certain differences.
Universal instructions for assembling a ROM with your own hands:
It is necessary to consider heat-removing blinds on the body; this will be required for heat removal. The case may not be used, but its presence will protect the device from various external influences.
For assembly you will need a transformer device; the best option is to use a separating mechanism. The electric coil will be mounted on the top of the transformer. To prevent accelerated winding output when using ROM, the consumer must make the basis for the device in advance.
Metal or wooden plates or a box are used as the base material:
To assemble a 10-volt starting charger, you need to select the device body. It can be made of wood, but during installation it is important to take into account the dimensions of the transformer device. If you give preference to analog mechanisms, then the foundation must be made strong. 10-volt models are equipped with a more powerful transformer, so handles are installed on the device body, in its upper part, for easy transportation. The transformer assembly itself is mounted in the center of the housing, and then the damper is installed.
The operating parameter of the ROM will be at least 4 Ah. The device must be able to charge a battery with a capacity of no more than 100 Ah. To diagnose operation, the device is additionally equipped with an ammeter.
In order to minimize the likelihood of overloads, isolation transformer mechanisms can be used. Installation of regulatory devices in such models is optional.
Adding zener diodes is possible, but these elements will be analog, digital parts are not used. The use of multi-channel devices will ultimately lead to overload, which will cause a malfunction of the secondary winding of the transformer mechanism. When selecting transistor elements, preference is given to parts with a maximum load parameter of about 3 amperes.
Circuit for assembling a 10-volt ROM
When the consumer prefers a linear resonant ROM, the minimum output voltage parameter will be about 10 volts. And the vector frequency will be approximately 44 Hz. To assemble the mechanism you will need an expansion device.
When installing clamps, it is better to give preference to aluminum elements, since they are minimally susceptible to the negative effects of corrosion.
Assembly of the 12-volt ROM is done using electrostatic capacitor devices; these parts are not difficult to find. A platform is used to create the device. When installing the transformer mechanism, a sealant is installed on the platform, only then can the inductor be mounted. It is better to purchase it complete with the primary winding. For installation, it is recommended to use open-type capacitor elements with the ability to withstand about 20 volts of output voltage.
The expansion elements are installed last; the consumer must first fix the damper. It is possible to add regulatory parts to the circuit, which are used to control the amount of power. When regulators are used, the circuit must be supplemented with a powerful power supply. Installation of a power supply is permitted only together with a zener diode.
For high-quality fastening of the clamps to the body, the use of welding equipment is allowed. When all assembly steps are completed, the damper is fixed. The installation of this unit is done next to the transformer device. Before using the ROM, it must be checked for grounding.
SadnessMan talked about the procedure for assembling a 12-volt ROM for the car's battery.
To develop a single-phase ROM, you will need an integrated transformer device.
Assembly features of single-phase devices:
Features of the assembly of two-phase starting and chargers for a car battery:
Induction expanders for assembling two-phase ROMs have proven themselves to be among the most stable in practice.
Features that must be taken into account when assembling devices of three-phase modifications:
Three-phase ROM assembly map User valeriyvalki spoke in detail about the procedure for assembling an adjustable ROM with a description of all the features and components that were used for development.
I present to your attention a powerfulstarter charger for charging car batteries voltage of 12 and 24 volts, as well as starting engines of cars and trucks with the corresponding voltages.
Its electrical circuit diagram:
The power source for the starter-charger is 220 volts of industrial frequency. The power consumed from the source can range from tens of watts in charging mode (when the batteries are almost charged and have a voltage of 13.8 - 14.4 volts or 27.6 - 28.8 volts for a pair connected in series) to several kilowatts in the starting mode of the car engine starter.
At the input of the device there is a two-pole circuit breaker with a current Inom = 25 A. The use of a two-pole circuit breaker is due to the reliability of disconnecting both the phase and the zero, since when connected through a standard Euro plug (with a grounding contact), there is no certainty that a single-pole circuit breaker will turn off the phase and thereby the entire device will be de-energized. This circuit breaker (in my version) is installed in a standard wall-mounted box. Frequently turning on the power with this switch does not make sense, and therefore did not install it on the front (front) panel.
Both in the “Start” mode and in the “Charge” mode, the power transformer is turned on by the same magnetic starter KM1, whose coil voltage is 220 volts and the current switched by the contacts is about 20-25 amperes.
The most important part of the starter-charger is the power transformer. I won’t give the circuit data of the power transformer, since I don’t think everyone will rush to copy one to one, I’ll just say what, in my opinion, you should pay attention to. As we have already noticed from the diagram, the transformer has a secondary winding with a branch from the middle. Here, during calculations, and then in practice, it is necessary to set the voltage at the output of the device (clamps on batteries - easier than crocodiles), taking into account the voltage drop across the diodes (in my version D161-250) within 13.8-14.4 volts for 12 volt mode and 27.6-28.8 for 24 volt mode, with a load current of up to 30 amperes. I used crocodiles from the weight of the welding machine, and accordingly painted the plus one red.
The 12/24 volt mode is installed by contactors KM2, KM3, the power contacts of which, rated for 80 amperes, are connected in parallel, giving a total of 240 amperes.
A shunt is installed in the circuit on the 12/24 volt side, and the contacts of the magnetic starter of the "" mode are installed in the ammeter circuit break.Charge" This ammeter must measure the charging current. The scale limit in my version is 0...30 A. The circuit closes in charging mode.
Separately, I would like to talk about the “Charge" As you have already noticed, there is no charge current control circuit here, but it can be said to be maximum. Error? I think no. Let's look at the electrical equipment of the average car. So, there the relay regulator regulates not the charge current, but... drives the generator into the parameters of the on-board network of the car, the same 13.8-14.4 volts, respectively, if you wind the transformer correctly, taking into account the voltage drop on the power diodes, then compare this circuit the car's generator, and as the battery charges, the current will only drop.
And, do not forget, in a diode bridge it is necessary to take into account that two diodes operate in series, that is, the voltage drop must be multiplied by two.
Among the shortcomings of this circuit, I can only highlight the dependence of the network voltage on the charging current. Since my version will be used at service stations, where the network voltage changes little and its main task is to start trucks with a voltage of 24 volts, I don’t see the need to complicate the design. But the solution to the problem can be to install an autotransformer through the free contacts of the magnetic starter KM4, parallel to KM1. Best regards, AZhila.
Today the topic of our post is called a small homemade starting device for starting a car, namely a starting device, not a charger, since we have many articles on this site about car chargers and how to charge. Therefore, today we are exclusively talking about a homemade battery starter.
So, what is a starting device for a car in general, in our case for the Hyundai Santa Fe, but this is not particularly important for which car, the capacity of the battery through which this starting device will start the engine is more important.
In this article we will look at the simplest diagram of a starting device for a car with our own hands, because most people do not have the knowledge in circuit design and electronics to create complex starting devices, and it is not always profitable to purchase a lot of parts for homemade products, which can sometimes come out as budget ready-made starting device for a car from the store.
So, in our case, for the launcher, we do not intend to purchase an expensive high-capacity portable battery, otherwise the device will immediately turn from a budget device into a very expensive one.
We will be making a starting device for a car from a 220V network, for this we will need a powerful transformer, preferably with a power of at least 500 Watt, and preferably 800 Watt, ideally 1.2-1.4 kilowatts = 1400 Watts. Since when starting the engine, the first impulse given by the battery to crank the crankshaft = 200 Amperes and the consumption of the starter is approximately 100 Amperes, and when our 100A device is combined with the battery, they will just give out 200A at the start and then our starter will help maintain the current strength of 100 Amperes for normal starting and operation starter until the engine starts completely.
This is what a DIY car starter diagram looks like, photo below
To create such a starting device from a transformer-type network, you need to rewind the transformer itself.
We will need:
We actually begin the process of making a portable starting device for a car with our own hands
To do this, you need to make the primary winding of the transformer with copper wire in insulation with a diameter of at least 1.5-2 mm, the number of turns will be approximately 260-300.
After you wind this wire onto the transformer core, you need to measure the current and voltage produced at the output of these windings, it should be in the range of 220-400 mA.
If you get less, then unwind a few turns of the winding, and if you get more, then on the contrary, wind it up.
Now you need to wind the secondary winding of the transformer of the starting charger. It is advisable to wind it with a multi-core cable with a thickness of at least 10mm, as a rule, the secondary winding contains 13-15 turns, at the output when measuring on the secondary winding you should get 13-14 volts, and as you understand, the voltage has become small, 13 volts in total, but the power the current flowing through it increased to approximately 100 Amperes, but was only 220-400 milliamps, that is, the current increased by approximately 300-400 times, and the voltage decreased by approximately 15 times. 
For a battery, both are important, but in this case the key role is played by the current strength.
If you cannot achieve a voltage of 13-14 volts, then simply wind 10 turns on the secondary winding, measure the voltage, now divide this voltage by the number of turns in our case 10 and get the voltage of one turn, and then simply multiply how many turns are needed to achieve 13-14 volts at the output of the secondary winding of a transformer homemade starting device.
For clarity, let's look at an example:
WE wound the secondary winding with 10 turns, we measure the voltage with a multimeter, for example, we got 20 volts, but we need about 13.
This means that we take our voltage of 20 volts and divide by the number of wound turns 10 = 20/10 = 2, the number 2 is 2 volts and gives us the voltage of one turn, which means how can we achieve 13-14 volts knowing that one turn produced 2 volts.
We take the value of the voltage we need, let it be 14 volts, and divide it by the voltage of one turn 2 volts, = 14/2 = 7, the number 7 is the number of turns on the secondary winding of the car charger necessary to achieve 14 volts of output voltage.
Now let's all wind our 7 turns. And to the outputs of these turns, according to the diagram of the starting device for a car with your own hands, which is located above, we connect our diodes, some car enthusiasts also use a circuit with one diode and one 12V 60-100 watt lamp, as in the photo below 
You put the terminals of our homemade starting device on top of the battery terminals, the battery is also connected to the car, we turn on our starter and immediately try to start the engine, as soon as the engine starts, we immediately disconnect the starting device from the network and disconnect it from the battery.
Some car owners, having at their disposal high-power capacitors or, more correctly, capacitors, make a capacitor starting device for the car with their own hands, using them instead of a portable portable battery. That is, such a device can be quickly charged from the mains in a minute, then brought to the car, and the engine can be started without connecting the starter to the mains.
But as a rule, such a scheme requires some deep knowledge of electronics and an understanding of the capacitance of capacitors and the principle of their operation, and even if you don’t have capacitors lying around, then it will not be advisable to buy them, since large capacitors are very expensive, and you will need several of them or even a dozen, and how then the price will not be lower than a good factory-made starting device, while you will also spend a lot of nerves and time creating such a blow.
By the way, the capacitor starting device for the Golden Eagle car has gained some popularity in our area - here is its photo below 
Therefore, it was the transformer starter that was most widespread in Soviet times, and even now; store-bought versions of such starters, of course, have been modified and contain various additional elements that make starting the engine from the mains easier and safer.
Any start from any type of launcher always has a negative effect on the condition of the battery, since the battery receives a large current in a very short period of time, which gradually leads to degradation and destruction of its plates during a system start from the launcher.
Therefore, it is better to still use a charger if you are not urgent to start the engine right now.
Well, our post entitled homemade portable launcher for cars is coming to an end. Write your reviews about what you think about this startup device circuit, whether you have ever used it and whether you were able to start the engine of your car.
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