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» Resistance of the ignition coil of a VAZ 2110. Performance: how to check the ignition coil of a VAZ with a multimeter

Resistance of the ignition coil of a VAZ 2110. Performance: how to check the ignition coil of a VAZ with a multimeter

In the electronic ignition system, which is one of the most important components of a modern car, high voltage current is created and distributed thanks to electronic devices. The electronic system has many clear advantages and also makes it easier to start the engine in winter.

personal parameters for the functioning of the system. First of all, the control unit acts on the igniter, which supplies voltage to the ignition coil, in the primary winding of which current begins to flow. When the voltage is interrupted, a current is induced in the secondary winding of the coil. Directly from the coil or through high-voltage wires, the current is sent to a specific spark plug, in which a spark is formed that ignites the fuel-air mixture. If the speed of rotation of the crankshaft changes, the sensor responsible for its rotation frequency, as well as the sensor that regulates the position of the camshaft, send signals directly to the electronic control unit, which changes the ignition timing. If the engine load increases, the ignition timing is controlled by the air flow sensor. The knock sensor provides important additional information about the ignition and combustion of the fuel-air mixture. Advantages of electronic ignition systems

Ignition systems: from simple to better!

The ignition system is an integral attribute of any gasoline or gas engine. With all the variety of technical nuances in this matter, all ignition systems with dynamic distribution of the supplied voltage can be divided into contact and non-contact. The following article is devoted to their main features, as well as the reasons for the emergence of systems with static voltage distribution (electronic ignition).

To ensure high efficiency and economy, the fuel must ignite at a certain point in time, which means that the spark must not be supplied to all cylinders at the same time. It is in ensuring this basic principle that the differences between contact and contactless ignition systems appear. Contact ignition system Contact ignition system includes the following components: - Spark plugs; - Source of electricity: when the car is turned on - battery, in normal operation - generator; - Ignition coil; - High-voltage and low-voltage wires; - Breaker; - Ignition distributor. The chopper and the ignition distributor are combined in the body of a single device, which is popularly called a “distributor”. The key feature of the contact system is the ignition distributor. This mechanical device determines which of the candles will be under fire at a given time.

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Elements of the VAZ-2110 ignition system

The ignition system of the VAZ-2110 is contactless or microprocessor-based. This section discusses the contactless ignition system. It consists of a distributor, commutator, ignition coil, spark plugs, ignition switch and high and low voltage wires.

Fig.28. Scheme of the contactless ignition system of the VAZ-2110

1 – battery; 2 – generator; 3 – plug connector; 4 – ignition switch; 5 – sensor-distributor; 6 – switch; 7 – candles; 8 – ignition coil.

Ignition distributor (distributor) VAZ-2110 type 40.3706 or 40.3706-01, four-spark, unshielded, with a control pulse sensor (Hall) and built-in vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing regulators.

Fig.29. Distributor of the ignition system VAZ-2110

A – device; b – diagram of the operation of the centrifugal regulator; 1 – coupling; 2 – body; 3 – vacuum regulator; 4 – vacuum regulator rod; 5, 7 – covers of the vacuum regulator; 6, 12 – springs; 8 – fitting for supplying vacuum; 9 – diaphragm; 10 – centrifugal regulator; 11 – contactless sensor; 13 – driven plate of the centrifugal regulator with screen; 14 – roller with the drive plate of the centrifugal regulator; 15 – weights; 16 – oil seal; 17 – cover; 18 – rotor; 19 – protective screen; 20 – holder of the front roller bearing assembled with the sensor support plate; 21 – washer for fastening wires; 22 – sensor support plate with bearing.

The VAZ-2110 distributor performs two main functions: firstly, it sets the moment of spark formation depending on its initial installation, the number of revolutions of the crankshaft and the load on the engine, and secondly, it distributes high voltage pulses ("spark") among the cylinders in accordance with the order of their work. For this purpose, a rotor (runner) mounted on the distributor sensor roller is used.

In order to avoid mistakes during assembly, the slider and ignition distributor cap are installed on the distributor sensor in only one position, as well as its shaft. The slider contains a 1 kOhm noise suppression resistor.

Fig.30. Scheme for checking the Hall sensor on a VAZ-2110 car

1 - ignition distributor; 2 - a voltmeter with a scale limit of at least 15 V and an internal resistance of at least 100 kOhm; 3 - view of the plug connector of the ignition distributor.

You can check the functionality of the Hall sensor by assembling the circuit shown in the figure. Slowly rotating the VAZ-2110 distributor shaft, we monitor the voltmeter readings. The voltage should change sharply from the minimum (no more than 0.4 V) to the maximum (no more than 3 V less than the supply voltage).

If a steel screen with slots touches the sensor (determined by slight jamming or a scratching sound when the roller rotates, as well as after partial disassembly of the distributor), check the axial play of the roller (no more than 0.35 mm, adjusted by selecting washers) and the fit of the screen on the roller.

If necessary, replace the roller assembly. A faulty Hall sensor cannot be repaired (except for a break in the wires between the sensor itself and the block on the distributor housing of the VAZ-2110 ignition system).

You can roughly assess the serviceability of the vacuum regulator directly on the car. With the engine running, disconnect the vacuum hose leading to the regulator from the carburetor fitting.

If you now create a vacuum in the hose, the engine speed should increase, and when the vacuum is removed, it should decrease again. The vacuum should remain for at least a few seconds if the hose is pinched.

You can visually verify the functionality of the vacuum regulator by partially disassembling the VAZ-2110 distributor and applying a vacuum to the inlet fitting of the regulator.

In this case, the plate with the Hall sensor should rotate at an angle of 7±1°, and when the vacuum is removed, return back without jamming. Accurate testing and adjustment of vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing regulators is carried out on special stands.

A switch type 3620.3734 or 76.3734 opens the power circuit of the primary winding of the VAZ-2110 ignition coil, converting the sensor control pulses into current pulses in the ignition coil.

The switch is checked using an oscilloscope using a special method; it is not repairable. Do not disconnect the switch connector while the ignition is on - this may damage it (as well as other components of the ignition system).

Ignition coil VAZ-2110 - type 3122.3705 - dry, with a closed magnetic circuit, or type 8352.12 - oil-filled, with an open magnetic circuit.

Data for testing: resistance of the primary winding at 25°C – 0.43±0.04 Ohm (3122.3705) or 0.42±0.05 Ohm (8352.12), secondary winding – 4.08±0.4 kOhm (3122.3705) or 5±1 kOhm (8352.12).

Insulation resistance to ground is at least 50 MOhm. Spark plugs VAZ-2110 - type A17DVR, or A17DVRM, or A17DVRM1, or their imported analogues (with noise suppression resistance 4-10 kOhm).

High-voltage wires – with a distributed resistance of 2550±270 Ohm/m. Do not touch high-voltage wires while the engine is running - this may result in electrical injury.

It is also forbidden to start the engine or allow it to operate with an open high-voltage circuit (removed wires or sensor-breaker cover) - this can lead to insulation burnout and failure of the electronic components of the VAZ-2110 ignition system.

As an exception, a short-term check of the ignition system “for spark” is possible, and the contact of the high-voltage wire being tested must be securely fixed at a distance of 5-10 mm from the vehicle ground. Do not hold the wire with your hands or tools (even with insulated handles).


Fig.31. Diagram of the VAZ-2110 carburetor solenoid valve control system

1 - ignition switch; 2 - ignition coil; 3 - control unit EPHH VAZ-2110; 4 - solenoid valve; 5 - carburetor limit switch; A - to power supplies.

The VAZ-2110 forced idle economizer control unit (EFHH) turns off the solenoid valve when the crankshaft rotation speed increases to 2100 min-1 and turns it on when it decreases to 1900 min-1, if the carburetor limit switch is shorted to ground (the gas pedal is released).

When the gas pedal is pressed (the switch is open), the valve is turned on regardless of the crankshaft speed.

Power is supplied to the EPHH control unit only when the ignition is on, so when the ignition is turned off, the valve is also turned off (regardless of the position of the carburetor limit switch). To check the operation of the EPHH VAZ-2110 control unit, connect a voltmeter.

Disconnect the wire from the carburetor limit switch and short it to ground. We start the engine and, gradually increasing the crankshaft speed, monitor the voltmeter readings.

After starting the engine, it should show at least 10 V (the valve is open), and at a crankshaft speed of about 2100 rpm, the voltage should sharply drop to a value of no more than 0.5 V (the valve should close).

After this, we slowly lower the engine speed; at a crankshaft speed of about 1900 min-1, the voltage should increase abruptly to its previous value (the valve should open).

We set the speed within 2200-2300 rpm (the valve is closed) and disconnect the carburetor limit switch wire from ground - the valve should open.

Removing the EPHH VAZ-2110 control unit

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

We unscrew the two self-tapping screws securing the right flap of the floor tunnel lining and remove the flap.

Disconnect the connector of the EPHH VAZ-2110 control unit.

Unscrew the two nuts securing the block to the bracket and remove the block.

In the same way, by removing the left flap of the floor tunnel lining, we disconnect the ignition system switch from the bracket.

Removing the ignition coil of a VAZ-2110

We carry out the work by turning off the ignition.

We take out the central wire.

We unscrew the two nuts securing the wires to the ignition coil of the VAZ-2110 and remove the wires.

Unscrew the two nuts securing the coil to the bracket and remove it.

Replacing the ignition distributor of VAZ-2110

To replace the ignition distributor (distributor) cap and rotor (runner), dismantling the ignition distributor is not required. We remove the high-voltage wires from the cover.

Unscrew the two screws securing the cover and remove it.

The cover is installed in only one position, and the wire socket for the first cylinder is marked with the number “1”.

The remaining wires are installed in accordance with the operating order of the cylinders - 1-3-4-2 (the direction of rotation of the slider is counterclockwise, viewed from the side of the distributor cover). By pulling, remove the slider.

The slider is installed in only one position, when the slot on the shaft is directed in the direction opposite to the contact.

To dismantle the VAZ-2110 distributor assembly, disconnect the high-voltage wires, the hose from the vacuum regulator and the electrical connector.

Unscrew the nut of the upper fastening of the ignition distributor and remove the holder of the high-voltage wires.

After unscrewing two more nuts, remove the distributor.

The distributor of the VAZ-2110 ignition system is sealed with a rubber ring, which we remove by prying it off with a screwdriver. Remove the protective screen.

Unscrew the two screws securing the front bearing holder and the screw securing the connector. Remove the connector.

Remove the lock washer of the vacuum regulator rod and unscrew the two screws securing it.

Remove the vacuum regulator. Remove the front bearing holder with the Hall sensor.

We unscrew the two screws and remove the Hall sensor of the VAZ-2110.

Using a screwdriver, remove the spring. Using a rod with a diameter of 2.5 mm, knock out the pin.

We remove the coupling and adjusting washers, which should ensure axial free play of the roller of no more than 0.35 mm.

We take out the centrifugal regulator of the VAZ-2110.

We knock out the oil seal through two holes in the housing.

We press in the new oil seal with a piece of suitable pipe.

We install a washer on the oil seal and core it in several places.

We assemble the distributor in the reverse order, lubricating the seal lip and bearings.

Before installing the VAZ-2110 ignition distributor, we put on the slider, but do not close the cover (or remove the cover if we are installing a new distributor).

We lubricate the rubber ring with engine oil, put the distributor on the studs and, turning the shaft by the slider, ensure that the camshaft slot aligns with the clutch.

In this position, we push the VAZ-2110 distributor all the way and tighten the nuts.

To make it easier to adjust the ignition timing, there are divisions and “+” and “–” signs on the ignition distributor flange, and an adjustment lug on the auxiliary unit housing.

One division on the flange corresponds to eight degrees of crankshaft rotation. We combine the protrusion on the body of the auxiliary units with the middle of the scale on the ignition distributor of the VAZ-2110. We tighten the nuts.

We check and set the ignition timing using a strobe light. To do this, we connect the “+” clamp of the strobe to the “+” terminal of the battery, the “ground” clamp to the “-” terminal of the battery, and connect the clamp of the strobe sensor to the high voltage wire of the 1st cylinder. -

We start the engine and direct the flashing stream of strobe light into the clutch housing hatch. If the ignition timing is set correctly, then when the warm engine is idling, the mark on the flywheel should be opposite the slot in the clutch housing shield.

To adjust the ignition timing, stop the VAZ-2110 engine, loosen the nuts securing the ignition distributor and turn it to the required angle.

To increase the ignition timing angle, turn the distributor housing clockwise, and to decrease it, turn it counterclockwise (as viewed from the ignition distributor cap). Tighten the fastening nuts.

The ignition coil (IC) in a VAZ 2110 car is one of the main components involved in starting the engine. Failure of this element can make it impossible to start the engine normally, so the car owner should know how to determine its malfunction. You can read more about breakdowns and unit replacement below.

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Description of the ignition coil

Let's start with a description of the device. 2110 with an engine of 16 or 8 valves is an element whose purpose is to create a spark to ignite the combustible mixture. In essence, this is a high-voltage signal transformer, which is equipped with an open or closed magnetic circuit. Today, 8- and 16-valve engines are equipped with two spark short circuits.

The device is necessary to ensure the simultaneous formation of a spark in cylinders 1 and 4 or in cylinders 3 and 2. If the VAZ 2110 does not, the device must be diagnosed, which may be due to the lack of a spark on the spark plugs. Naturally, the lack of a spark can also be due to many other problems, for example, inoperative spark plugs or.

Possible faults

Many car owners mistakenly believe that if not, it may be due to a breakdown, but this is not the case. If the key stops turning, this indicates that the lock is not working. It should be noted that in the VAZ 2110 there are 8 or 16 valves, failure of this element of the ignition system may be due to poor grounding of the device. In addition, the unit may fail due to high-voltage electric shock.

When diagnosing a short circuit on an 8- or 16-valve engine, you also need to pay attention to checking the housing for defects. If there are cracks or other types of damage on the housing, the short circuit must be replaced. One of the main elements of the circuit, which most often fails, is the secondary winding, in particular, a violation of its insulation (video author - Andrey Ivkin).

How to check the ignition coil?

If the device stops turning on, you need to diagnose it to determine the breakdown.

The verification procedure can be carried out on your own; to do this, you need to follow the following procedure:

  1. First, it is done, if you are sure of their performance, and the motor operates with deviations in different modes, then a short circuit is diagnosed. Try swapping the coil of the non-functioning cylinder with any other one. Then you need to turn on the engine and observe its operation.
  2. If the cylinder begins to work better, but problems appear in the work of the so-called donor, then there is no doubt that the problem lies precisely in the short circuit. If this is the case, then the unit will have to be changed.

Short circuit testing can also be carried out by measuring the resistance level, in particular, we are talking about the windings - primary and secondary. If we are talking about the primary element, then the resistance level in it should be about 0.43 Ohms, as for the secondary winding, here the indicator should vary around 4.08 kOhms. As for ground resistance, this figure should be 50 MOhm.

Instructions for setting the ignition

Setting the ignition to “ten” involves setting the marks of the gas distribution mechanism, in this case the mark is located on the flywheel. This procedure is quite feasible at home, so you can handle it yourself. Of course, to do this you should follow the steps described in the instructions. If you doubt that you can set the ignition correctly, it is better to seek help from specialists, especially since the cost of such a service is not particularly high.

So, how to set the ignition on a VAZ 2110:

  1. There must be a mark on the belt pulley, and it is necessary that two points coincide - on the gear shaft and on the oil pump. If they coincide, this indicates that the pistons are located at the top dead center of the first and fourth cylinders, while the crankshaft is set to its original state. The same must be done with the camshaft.
  2. You also need to align the so-called boss on the sprocket with the tab on the rear cover of the timing belt.
  3. If all the marks match, this indicates that the timing belt is working properly. If this is the case, then all you have to do is set the crankshaft sensor. This regulator is mounted on the front of the power unit and is fixed on a key.
  4. There are cases when the installation site is broken, as a result of which the pulley has to be installed at a different angle. If this is the case, then the crankshaft sensor will receive an incorrect pulse, which may be either earlier or later than required. In this case, the ignition will be installed incorrectly, then you will have to install the pulley more accurately or replace it along with the key.

Video “Adjusting the ignition timing with your own hands in a VAZ 2110”

More clear instructions for setting the ignition timing in the domestic “top ten” on your own are shown in the video below (the author of the video is Nikita Bazakin).

Where is the ignition coil located?
Its location is not very convenient, especially if the battery is not removed from the car, but why? Yes, because it is located under the battery, and getting to it can be a little problematic, especially if a person is of a large build.

Note!
If the battery still bothers you, then look at the article: “Replacing the battery”, it describes in detail how you can remove the battery from the car!

When should you change the ignition coil?
1. The ignition coil itself can live a very long life, but as they say, anything happens in this life! Therefore, below we will describe several problems that can help you understand that the ignition coil has become unusable:

  • The first problem that an engine may experience when a coil fails is that the car’s engine starts to run jerkily.
  • Then the engine speed may begin to fluctuate.
  • The engine may also be unstable at idle.

2.Now let's look at the external damage that requires replacing the ignition coil:

  • Firstly, it must be replaced if through cracks are visible on the plastic cover of the coil.
  • And also if chips and signs of overheating appear on it.
  • And in addition to all this, the ignition coil must be replaced if there are traces of oil on it, which has leaked from the coil due to its overheating, or due to its defect and other things.

How to replace the ignition coil on a VAZ 2110-VAZ 2112?

Removal:
1) Before starting work, be sure to de-energize the battery by removing the “-” terminal from it. (How to de-energize the battery, read the article: “Replacing the battery”, in the “first” paragraph).

2) Then, approaching the ignition coil, disconnect one single high-voltage wire from its central part.

4) Next, when the nuts are unscrewed, remove both side wires from the coil.

5) And to complete the operation, unscrew the two side nuts securing the ignition coil itself to the bracket.

6) And then remove the coil from the car engine.

Installation:
1) Taking the new coil in your hands, first install it in its place by tightening the two nuts that secure it.

2) Then put two wires on the sides of the coil and secure them with retaining nuts.

Note!
When installing two side wires, pay attention to the markings that are marked on the sides of the ignition coil (see photo below). So this marking indicates which terminal of the coil should be connected to this or that wire. The blue wire must be connected to the “B” marking, and the red wire must be connected to the “K” marking! (Be sure to read the “ ” paragraph at the very bottom of the article)

3) Then place the high-voltage wire on the central part of the ignition coil.

4) And then install the negative terminal on the battery.

Important!
On old ignition coils, as a rule, instead of the letters “B” and “K”, the designations “-” and “+” are used, which means the same thing, but only in signs. The blue wire must be connected to the “-” sign, and the red wire must be connected to the “+” sign!

The motor control system includes a wide range of different elements, each of which plays its own important role.

In some situations, high voltage disappears on several or even one cylinder. The reason for this may be the ignition module on the VAZ 2110, or rather its malfunction.

It should be noted that replacing the ignition module in a VAZ 2110 may not be required. First try to repair it, diagnose and fix the problem.

Design

Structurally, the ignition module includes two main elements:

  • 2 ignition coils that generate high-voltage pulses directed to the spark plugs;
  • Dual channel switch.

The reasons for failure can be different, ranging from interruptions in the operation of the engine, ending with an unexpected stop of the power unit. Please note that the "Check Engine" light does not turn on.

Malfunctions

Diagnosing the problem will not be a problem for you if you understand a little electrical engineering and know how to work with a device such as a multimeter. If not, we recommend that you contact a specialist. A professional check of the ignition module of a VAZ 2110 using a multimeter will give you the result you need and will allow you to answer important questions.

Do not rush into repairs, since the problem may not lie in this element at all. Before checking the ignition module on a VAZ 2110, consult with professionals and arrange a check of your car. You will have to spend time and money on this, but it is better to be prepared for troubles.

Before checking the VAZ 2110 ignition unit, make sure that all other engine systems are working properly.

Quite often, short-term breakdowns occur in the system, which soon disappear. The check engine light does not detect them, but they remain in the controller and are entered into its memory. If you try to read errors on the controller with a tester, it will not show anything, since there were problems, but now they are gone.

We have already become familiar with the signs of a malfunction in the VAZ 2110 ignition module, and the reasons for such situations may be dirty contacts, poor ground connection, electrical interference, and so on.

Repair

So, for the VAZ 2110 the most common problem is the disappearance of voltage on cylinders 2 and 3. After some time, the engine starts working normally again if you press the rear plate of the module.

You should not put up with such a situation; it is better to immediately check the functionality of the unit, restore or replace it completely.

Removing the module

The procedure is quite simple.

  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
  2. Remove the plastic cover that covers the motor.
  3. Remove the wires from the spark plugs.
  4. Disconnect the wires from the ignition module. Their numbering is indicated on special white rings. And the cylinder number is indicated on the ignition module housing.
  5. Disconnect the connector from the ignition module.
  6. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the three nuts that hold the block we are looking for.
  7. Carefully remove it, after which you can begin further work.

Now let's move directly to working with the module:

  1. Open the aluminum plate on the ignition module. A flathead screwdriver is useful for this.
  2. Inside you will find a small printed circuit board with electronic components. It is covered with a transparent layer of silicone, which will have to be removed.
  3. There are also wires that connect the board to the connector contacts. They are made of aluminum, so they can tear quickly.
  4. Tear off all the wires from the contacts, don’t be afraid. Others will be installed in their place. By the way, experts recommend using stranded wires used in computer mice.
  5. The ignition module circuit includes two switches and two powerful transresistors. If you decide to change these elements, you need to know that the switches are manufactured by SGS-THOMSON (model L497D1), and the transistors are of the BU931 type.
  6. The contacts are made of aluminum, so you will need a special flux to work with this metal.
  7. We solder the wiring to the board. It is more difficult to solder to the transistor collectors, since they are covered with a special material, the soldering of which is problematic. Therefore, try to hide the top coating from the element as carefully as possible. To prevent the soldering iron from transferring all the heat to the plate, place it on the stove and heat it to 180 degrees Celsius.
  8. Solder the wires to the contacts on the module so that they are as short as possible.
  9. Cover the areas where you soldered with varnish. Regular nail polish borrowed from your wife will do.
  10. Check if the ignition module is working.
  11. If everything is fine, coat the inner surface with a special autosealant, then reassemble in the reverse order.
  12. Upon completion of assembly, the wiring should be positioned fairly freely. Make sure that they are not compressed inside the box and that the integrity of the connections is not broken.

Carrying out such a repair of the ignition module on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands will not be difficult. But be careful, act carefully and consistently. Pay special attention to the soldering process.

But keep in mind that we have addressed the problem of bad contacts. She is not the only one for the “ten”. You may need to pinout the ignition module on the VAZ 2110. For this, it is better to contact specialists.

If the cause of the malfunction lies elsewhere, then there is a high probability that it is better to simply replace the VAZ 2110 8-valve ignition module with a new one. The search may drag on without yielding results. Replacing the element will completely solve the current problem.

A little about prices

We have already noted which switch and transistor are used when repairing the ignition module of a dozen. The first costs about 3 dollars, and for the second you will have to pay about 6 dollars.

Some craftsmen use a domestic analogue of the transistor - model KT848A . Of course, it costs less. But its problem is its lower quality and larger size, which somewhat complicates the repair process.