Solving the problem of the reliability of the ignition system on my Ural motorcycle, I came to the conclusion that it was necessary to install a BSZ...
Having considered the huge abundance of options for contactless ignition systems, both on the market and on the Internet, I decided to make for myself the simplest option for the electronic part. Namely, use a Zhiguli Hall sensor and switch. The reason for choosing this particular combination was that I like to travel far and for a long time, and you must admit that if a specific unit specifically for a motorcycle fails along the way, it is not always possible to find a replacement for Saurman or an opto sensor somewhere in the outback, just as it is not always possible to carry it with you contact ignition kit in reserve. And spare parts for Zhiguli can be found in any village.
Search for BSZ kit
So, the choice has been made, all that remains is to implement it. I went to the market. I bought a switch for a VAZ 2108, a Hall sensor and a piece of wiring from a VAZ 2107 distributor. I bought a two-terminal coil from Oka. I also needed an old breaker housing to make a mounting panel for the Hall sensor that I had.
How to make a butterfly for BSZ
The simplest, but not the most correct option was to make a modulator butterfly, ordering it from a turner, which could be rigidly fixed to the shaft. In this case, the ignition timing would remain constant all the time. Of course, it would be possible to add an additional FUOZ unit (ignition timing generator) to this option, but, based on my concept of “reliability in simplicity,” this option also did not suit me. I wanted the engine to work as it should, without complicating the electronic part, so I went to the market again and bought a new Ural cam with a centrifugal regulator. I approached the selection of the cam responsibly and bought the most reliable one, not a Chinese one.
We make a plate for the hall sensor
I took the old body from the breaker, removed all the insides from it, and sawed off the vertical walls to a horizontal plane. The result is a plate like this.
Next, having thought about how to secure the Hall sensor, I decided to “sink” it and secure it at the bottom of the plate, fortunately there was 3 mm of free space under the plate, just right for attaching the sensor. This mounting option seemed to me the most rigid, plus the sensor mounting screws will not be unscrewed due to engine vibrations, since they will rest against the housing. I made the necessary cut in the plate along the width of the sensor, drilled two holes and cut an M3 thread. I installed the Hall sensor on the plate and secured it with M3 screws with countersunk heads.
We manufacture a modulator for BSZ
I measured the vertical distance from the slot in the sensor to the edge of the plate. I got distances from the bottom edge of the sensor slot of 6 mm from the top of 10 mm.I installed the plate on the motorcycle, installed the cam with the centrifugal regulator in place, looked at how the lower edge of the cam sits in relation to the plate, it should be approximately at the same level. I transferred the distance from the plate to the center of the slot in the sensor to the cam body. In my case it turned out to be 8 mm. Marked a horizontal line. The curtains will be welded at this level. I left the marking line for release.
I measured the distance from the center of the shaft on which the cam sits to the Hall sensor housing through the slot - 28-29mm. I decided that the diameter of the butterfly should be 54 mm, so that there would be a gap of 2 mm between the edge of the curtain and the sensor body. Somewhere on the BSZ discussion forums I read that for the switch to work properly, a 2/1 cycle is required. That is, two parts of the sector are closed, one part is open. It turns out 120 degrees metal, 60 degrees slot.
Determined the central axis of the cam. If you look at the cam directly in the center of the hole, you will see that the cam is not round. Only two parts are round, and two seem to have been ground off. The axis passes through the centers of both rounded parts, i.e. where the contacts remain open. Using simple calculations, I marked four vertical lines on the cam. Got clear boundaries of sectors horizontally and vertically.
I ordered a mandrel from a turner - a round metal washer 8 mm thick, 54 mm in diameter and with an internal hole of 22 mm, so that the round part of the cam would fit tightly into the washer, without play. The sectors for the modulator were first cut out of cardboard. I did this with the metal: I cut out a round piece from a 1 mm sheet of iron with a chisel, and drilled a hole in the center for an M8 bolt. I drove a bolt into this hole, tightened it with a nut, inserted it into the drill, turned on the drill and carefully sanded the edges of the workpiece with a file to the desired diameter and shape.
I marked the resulting workpiece into 4 sectors, two at 120 degrees and two at 60 degrees. I carefully sawed one marked side into two halves, put both parts together, and made a cut along the remaining line. Got the required sectors. Next, holding the sectors again in a vice, I made it as on a paper blank, and drank the required shape under the welding site.
After all these manipulations I went to the welder. Well, everything is simple there. We inserted the cam into the mandrel turned by a lathe. We laid the petals on the mandrel, oriented them along the marked lines and welded them to the eccentric. The most difficult part of the BSZ butterfly modulator was ready.
Installing BSZ on a motorcycle
Installation on the motorcycle did not take long. The old ignition had already been removed. In its place I installed a plate with a Hall sensor and put the butterfly modulator in place.
I determined the places where the switch will be located (in my case, near the battery) and the ignition coil (under the front of the tank).
I used silicone wires from the coil to the spark plugs with automobile rubber tips (more than once they helped me out in heavy rain). I ran the wiring to the switch from the Hall sensor, having first lengthened it a little.
I connected the plus of the switch and the ignition coil to the standard wiring wire, which used to go to the breaker, and the minus of the switch to the housing, using the switch mounting bolt. The negative wire of the coil was connected to terminal No. 1 of the switch, as indicated in the diagram. He turned on the ignition and cranked the engine. There was a spark. All that was left was to turn on the ignition.
We set the ignition for the first time with the BSZ butterfly modulator.
We set the ignition almost as described in the manual, but with some adjustments due to the fact that we now have no contacts. The opening moment is determined by the spark on the spark plug when the modulator curtain passes through the Hall sensor.
So. We set the crankshaft to mark P (early ignition, first mark, complete alignment of the arrow on the crankshaft and the marks in the center of the window). We unscrew the spark plug from the left cylinder, put on the high-voltage wire, and provide the spark plug with reliable ground. We move the weights as far as they will go and by turning the body of the plate with the Hall sensor we catch the moment of the spark. Having caught the position of the plate at which the spark jumps, we tighten it with three screws. We check again to make sure that the angle is not knocked down when tightening. The spark should jump at the moment of maximum divergence of the weights. The next step is to check the advance angle on the second cylinder. We rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees (a full turn) until the marks and marks P coincide. And we check for the presence of a spark at the point where the weights are completely separated. (We do not touch the plate with the Hall sensor) If a spark appears at the moment of complete divergence, then you can congratulate you, everything was done correctly.
We bring the modulator to mind.
If, when checking the second cylinder, a spark appeared before the weights reached their maximum or did not appear at all, then the modulator was made out of alignment. In this case, the spark will be in the cylinders at different ignition timing angles. This defect can be removed quite simply as follows.
Let's first figure out why the spark didn't appear. But it did not appear for the reason that the modulator curtain did not open completely and did not go all the way. You just need to help it open, file its edge a little with a file (the one that is located in the slot of the Hall sensor). In order not to confuse the edges of the modulator, we mark the edge that “does not spark” with a felt-tip pen or in some other way and then file it down until a spark appears. (Four strokes of the file were enough for me and a spark appeared).
Now let’s look at the option of a spark appearing until the weights are maximally separated. The curtain opens before the weights reach their maximum spread. It is necessary to reset the ignition on this side of the modulator. We do not touch the crankshaft; it is already installed in the desired position, mark P in the center of the window for the desired cylinder. We unscrew the three screws of the plate with the Hall sensor, move the weights to the maximum and catch the moment of the spark. Got caught? Great. We tighten the plate, check the spark at the maximum spread of the weights. Now turn the crankshaft a full turn until mark P appears in the window for the next cylinder. In this position of the crankshaft we again try to get a spark. It shouldn't exist. We mark this edge of the modulator with a felt-tip pen and work it with a needle file until a spark appears. Now your modulator has been adjusted and the ignition is set to 80 gasoline.
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The main problem with the Izh Jupiter motorcycle engine is the standard contact ignition system. Any owner of Jupiter...
Radio magazine 1 issue 1998
V. GUSEV, Golitsyno, Moscow region.
Due to a number of circumstances, the choice of circuit design solutions for ignition units for motorcycle engines today is very narrow. This, of course, creates great difficulties for motorcycle owners who are experimenting in the implementation of electronics on two- and three-wheeled vehicles with a two-stroke engine. This article describes a simple thyristor ignition unit for two-cylinder motorcycle engines with two ignition coils. According to the design, it does not pretend to be fundamentally new, but it impresses with its sophisticated design, does not require scarce parts, and is unpretentious in operation. The author rode his motorcycle with this unit for dozens of seasons.
Fundamental ignition unit diagram for a two-cylinder motorcycle engine, equipped with two ignition coils (example - the IZH-Jupiter motorcycle). shown in Fig. 1. The block structure is traditional. Two transistors VT1, VT2 and transformer T1 are used to assemble a converter of the on-board supply voltage to a higher voltage (310...320 V), which powers a two-channel ignition pulse shaper. The channels according to the diagram are exactly the same and are each loaded with its own ignition coil (12,13).
The generation frequency of the converter is -3000...3500 Hz. With an on-board supply voltage of 6 V, the unit consumes a current of 0.4...0.5 A at idle (the ignition is on, the engine is not running), and at maximum crankshaft speed - no more than 3 A.
The increased constant voltage from the output of the rectifier bridge VD1-VD4 charges the storage capacitor SZ through the diode VD5 and the primary winding of the ignition coil. When the contacts SF1 of the breaker are closed, the starting capacitor C5 is charged through resistor R3 from the on-board network. At the moment they open, this capacitor is discharged through resistors R9. R10. diode VD7 and control junction of thyristor VS1.
The SCR, which opens, discharges the storage capacitor SZ onto the primary winding of the ignition coil. The discharge current pulse forms a high voltage pulse in the secondary winding of the T2 coil.
The VD9R5 circuit reduces the discharge time of the storage capacitor SZ. which increases the performance of the node. Resistor R7 creates a time delay for charging the starting capacitor C5. which protects the unit from false operation when the contacts of the SF1 breaker bounce at the moment of their closure.
Decoupling diodes VD5 and VD6 at the moment of sparking. alternately closing, they ensure the discharge of only one of the two storage capacitors. So. when the SCR VS1 is open, the diode VD6 is closed. and vice versa.
At the moment of sparking, the output of the voltage converter is closed by the low resistance of the open thyristor VS1 and diode VD5. therefore, its oscillations stop, it stops consuming current from the on-board network, and at the output of the VD1-VD4 bridge the voltage decreases to zero. Upon completion of the discharge of the storage capacitor SZ, the thyristor VS1 closes, the converter generator starts again and a new charging cycle of the storage capacitor begins.
To install the unit on motorcycles with a 12-volt on-board network, you only need to adjust the standard ratings of some parts and the number of turns of the transformer; the circuit remains unchanged. So. resistor R1 should have a resistance of 30 ohms. R2 - 360 Ohm. R3 and R4 - 1.2 kOhm, R5 and R6 - 1.2 kOhm. R9-R12 -200 Ohm. The D9E diodes must be replaced with a D223 capacitor C1 - with another one, with a capacity of 5 µF for a voltage of 25 V. and C2 -20 µF - for a voltage of 25 V.
The current consumed by the unit with a 12-volt power supply is approximately half as much as with a 6-volt power supply, other characteristics remain almost the same.
The transformer is wound on three K31x18x7 ring magnetic cores folded together from M2000NM1-2 ferrite. The number of turns of windings and the brand of wire are indicated in the table. Winding 111 is wound first, then II and I. The turns of each winding are placed evenly around the ring. The inter-row and inter-winding insulation is made of adhesive tape. in one layer and in two or three, respectively. It should be borne in mind that the amount of space in the lumen of the magnetic circuit is limited.
The block is connected to the rest of the ignition system circuits via a six-pin connector X1. Any connector that is easy to use and can withstand the operating current through the contacts is suitable.
The design of the block is arbitrary. For transistors, a general heat sink with an area of 40...50 cm2 is sufficient; they are mounted without gaskets. SCRs are installed through mica spacers on a heat sink with an area of 8... 12 cm?. The heat sink can be the metal casing of the unit.
A unit installed correctly from serviceable parts starts working immediately and does not require any adjustment. The capacitance of capacitor C2 is not critical, but the frequency of the voltage converter depends on the capacitance of capacitor C1.
Any motorcycle ignition coils for 6 and 12 V, as well as automobile ones designed for the classic ignition option, can work together with the ignition unit.
The presence of connector X1 makes it possible to quickly switch from electronic ignition to classic ignition. To do this, it is enough to insert a “capacitor” plug into the socket part of the connector, the diagram of which is shown in Fig. 2.
In conclusion, a few tips and cautions. First, be sure to remove the capacitors bridging the breaker contacts. Pay attention to the fastening of the transformer - it should be done like this. so that the mounting elements do not form a closed loop around the magnetic core.
The output voltage of the converter should not be increased beyond 320 V. This will only increase the leakage current through the SCRs and will negatively affect the reliability of the unit.
On the IZH-Jupiter motorcycle engine, with classic ignition, the breaker contacts open when the corresponding piston is 2.2 mm from the “top dead center”. To work with an electronic unit, this value must be reduced to 1.8 mm.
Over the years of operating a motorcycle with an electronic ignition unit, I have more than once had to ride with both a battery and a battery of galvanic cells, and without a current source at all, starting the engine from acceleration - I don’t remember a case where the unit caused any complaints.
Electronic ignition of the IZH-Jupiter motorcycle with one Hall sensor.
Due to your numerous requests, I decided to write a short article about my electronic ignition. I installed it on my Jupiter a year ago, I tinkered with the installation, but it was worth it. I forgot what ignition is in general (it’s not even afraid of dampness!), the engine began to run much smoother, softer, dynamics improved, at speed the engine became much more sensitive to gas, idling was smoother and more stable. It starts even with a fairly weak battery. Having left the season and not having experienced any troubles, I immediately installed the same ignition on a new “watery” engine (I wrote about it in my previous article. So, in order. Installation and configuration took one day, all the details (I used the Hall sensor, bundle of wires, switch and two-terminal ignition coil from Oka. I didn’t change anything on the generator: I just removed the cams and secured the Hall sensor in a suitable place. The plate - the modulator is fixed on the rotor - so that it fits clearly in the middle of the slot of the Hall sensor , I used washers. How I placed everything can be seen in the pictures.
Operation and problems:
For some reason, many are sure that the red wire of the sensor from the switch is supplied with the same 12 volts that it is “powered by”, and based on these considerations, they connect the sensor not to the switch connector, but to the on-board network of the motorcycle. The voltage there, of course, is the same, but it is only passed through the system for protecting the sensor from power surges, which makes its operation more precise and uninterrupted.
Now about switches. The devices are not simple, expensive and cannot be repaired; they do not forgive incorrect connections. Buying a ready-made “switch-sensor” harness in a store (especially since it costs about 60 rubles) is much cheaper than replacing a damaged “brain”. There is not enough space on the motorcycle, my hands are itching to remove the radiator from the switch. This cannot be done, since within ten minutes the switch will overheat and die.
Another good piece of advice: if you are going to redo the ignition, then all the parts should be “from the same place” (sensor, switch, harness and coil). It is better to take a coil for 1-cylinder vehicles 3112.3705 from front-wheel drive Zhiguli, and for 2-cylinder vehicles - a two-spark 3012.3705 (from a modern Volga or Oka). Do not check the spark between the high-voltage wire and the ground; look for the spark only on the spark plug (which should have good contact with the ground at the time of testing). If you move the wire too far from ground, the voltage in the secondary winding of the coil, trying to break through the excessive air gap, will exceed reasonable limits, and a spark will jump inside the ignition coil and disable it. But since the coil is essentially a transformer, the voltage will also increase in the primary winding. And the output transistor of the switch may not withstand this. If it burns out, the switch cannot be restored.
When writing this article, materials from Moto magazine and personal experience were used.
Please write to [email protected]
Replacing the standard (contact) ignition system with a contactless (electronic) one
Many motorcyclists have heard about BSZ more than once; some, not understanding the decoding, mistakenly call it BZS. Others simply call it “electronic ignition.” So what is BSZ? BSZ is a Contactless Ignition System. As the name suggests, this system has no contact parts, that is, mechanical wear is completely eliminated, which means the “eternity” of this system. Of course, it is not actually eternal in terms of operation, because the BSZ parts themselves have a limited service life and are consumables. BUT after one normal, correct installation of the BSZ, you will no longer have to reconfigure it, as you have to do on a contact system (since the contacts there inexorably burn out, and over time you have to adjust). In principle, BSZ can also be called electronic ignition, since it works on electronic semiconductors on which the switch is built. If you have long heard about what BSZ is, and have always dreamed that your “swallow” would fly even better than before, then this article is for you! I am Alex Jay, I have personally verified from my own experience that a correctly made BSZ has been working quietly for three years now, without any replacement of its parts or reconfigurations.
Advantages of BSZ over KSZ
While writing the article, I sat and thought and thought, and still did not come to the conclusion of what exactly is the main advantage of BSZ; for me, all the advantages listed below are the main ones and are equal to each other.
So let's get started:
High stability of engine operation (synchronous operation of the cylinders, strictly in turn)
A quick review of the throttle
Better engine thrust (allowing you to easily use the largest drive sprockets without difficult acceleration!)
Candles “live” four times longer than on KSZ (I’ll write about this separately below)
Less well-known “snot” from Java mufflers (since fuel and oil are burned much better)
Longer service life of all crank bearings (as there is less extraneous detonation and vibration)
Less fuel consumption (since it burns better, the carburetor must be adjusted to a lower fuel supply)
Types of BSZ
There are two types of BSZ:
Single-channel (one Hall sensor, two-lobe modulator, one switch, one two-terminal ignition coil operating on two cylinders at once)
Two-channel (two Hall sensors, one, or better yet two, modulator lobe, two switches, two ignition coils, one for each cylinder)
It is preferable to install a single-channel system, since it will be more stable, because here you do not have to adjust each cylinder (which you have to do at KSZ); here, if the modulator is properly made, then only one cylinder is adjusted. Also, in a single-channel one, fewer wires are used, its parts take up less space, and energy consumption is lower (which is very important for 6-volt generators)
There are many people who like to “get confused” who install a two-channel one, shouting at the same time that this way they can configure it more accurately, etc. I assure you that these are unnecessary hassles, and there will be no accuracy here (why is indicated above)
Spark plug. I said above that spark plugs “live” longer, which begs the question “Why?”
Actually the answer is simple. If you decide to install a single-channel BSZ (or a two-channel one with a two-lobe modulator), then this is what will happen:
When igniting in one cylinder, in the other, a spark will also strike at BDC, since it strikes simultaneously on both spark plugs, that is, spark twice per revolution on each spark plug.
What does this give? This allows for warming up and cleaning of the spark plugs at that moment the pistons are at bottom dead center, we get a smaller temperature difference between the spark plug electrodes (not allowing it to cool) and clean electrodes, ready for the new ignition of the fuel mixture. These factors, as practice has shown, increase the service life of candles.
P. S . Please note that spark plugs must be used exactly those that are designed for BSZ (when purchasing at a car store, you must indicate this to the seller)
Installation of BSZ
To do this, you need to prepare the following in advance:
Tools: screwdrivers, pliers, hammer, anvil, multimeter (preferably electronic), narrow ruler (up to 10mm wide) or caliper, file and needle files
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(), RESPECT OTHER WORK. THANKS FOR UNDERSTANDING
Motorcycles of the Izh and Java brands can be quite easily converted to batteryless ignition. I did this seven years ago and still have no complaints. What is necessary? If the motorcycle has 6 V electrical equipment, then a 7 V generator set is from Minsk or the old Voskhod (with contact or electronic ignition); if at 12 V, then at 14 V - from the new “Voskhod”. Moreover, generator rotors can be either with removable or non-removable cams (in the first case, the installation procedure is simpler). For 2-cylinder engines (with electronic ignition), an additional sensor coil and another electronic switch will be required. Finally, the adapter flanges are turned from steel on a lathe and filed by hand, with a configuration depending on the brand of motorcycle.
The conversion sequence is as follows. First, the old generator with the relay-regulator and capacitors is dismantled, and the key is removed from the crankshaft.
Then a new generator is prepared for installation. To do this, it is somewhat modernized: the key is removed from the removable rotor cam (if it is left, the rotor will be installed as with a non-removable cam), and one of the mounting ears is cut off from the stator, since it will interfere with the crankcase protective cover. Thus, for example, in a Java with 6 V electrical equipment, the stator is attached to the flange with only two M5 bolts.
The generator stator of a 2-cylinder engine undergoes a more significant modernization: in order to place the second sensor coil, a special socket is cut out opposite the first (it is best to do this during adjustment).
Before assembly, for subsequent convenience of fixing the stator, the top dead center (TDC) of a single-cylinder or right-hand piston of a 2-cylinder engine is roughly determined and the adapter flange is attached to the crankcase.
On the crankshaft axle, if the crankcase protective cover fits tightly, place and center the rotor of the new generator while turning the crankshaft (the spark plugs are removed to make it easier). First tighten only the installed standard axle bolt to the end. To prevent the crankshaft from spinning at this moment, turn on the gearbox and jam the rear wheel (put, say, a hammer handle into the spokes).
Adapter flange for motorcycles “Izh-P-Sport”, “Izh-P-4, - 5”, “Izh-Yu-4, - 5”.
1 - generator stator, 2 - ignition switch, 3 - electronic switch units, 4 - ignition coils, 5 - spark plugs.
Having secured the rotor, determine the moment of spark formation, that is, the position when the piston in the Java-350 engine does not reach TDC by 2.8...3.3 mm, Java-250 - 3.3...3.7 mm, single-cylinder “Izha” - 3.0...3.5 mm, 2-cylinder - 2.5...3.1 mm (in this position, the groove on the rotor should be aligned with the protrusion on the frame of the sensor coil, and the gap between them should be within 0 .3±0.05 mm). Then the stator is finally fixed.
The piston of the left cylinder on 2-cylinder motorcycles is adjusted in a similar way. Apply the second sensor coil to the stator so that the protrusion of its frame is located opposite the groove on the rotor. Mark the socket, cut it out and fasten the coil with screws, maintaining a gap of 0.3 ± 0.05 mm.
For a complete set on a converted motorcycle, a sound signal and a turn relay from Minsk or Voskhod, operating on alternating current, are used.
Connect the new generator according to the diagram shown. In this case, old electrical wiring is used. The switches are installed in the box where the battery was located.
And one last thing. The circuit does not require maintenance during operation and is configured once - during installation.
S. MYROV
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