Principle of operation
Rice. 1. Schematic diagram of ignition.
1 - spark plugs,
2 - sensor-distributor,
3 - switch,
4 - generator,
5 - battery,
6 - ignition switch,
7 - ignition relay,
8 - ignition coil.
After turning the key in the ignition switch 6, voltage is applied to the ignition relay coil, contacts 85-86, through the lock contacts. The relay is activated and supplies +12 V voltage through its contacts 30-87 to terminal “B” of ignition coil 8 and to the 4th contact of switch 3. Voltage is removed from contacts 3 and 5 of the switch to power the Hall sensor. When the key is further turned to the “start” position, distributor roller 1 and screen 18, which is rigidly fixed to the roller, begin to rotate clockwise (the screen has four windows according to the number of engine cylinders). At the moment when the screen slot is opposite the Hall sensor, control current pulses appear on its central, green wire. They are supplied to the 6th contact of the commutator, in which they are converted into current pulses for the primary winding of the ignition coil, contact “K”. The switch works like a switch, turning on and off the primary winding circuit of the ignition coil with its output transistor. At the moment of switching off, the current in the circuit of the primary winding of the coil is interrupted. At the same moment, a high voltage current of at least 20 kV is induced in the secondary winding of the ignition coil, which is supplied via a high-voltage wire to central contact 12 (see Fig. 4) of the ignition distributor cap. Next, the current passes through the ember 13 to the central contact of the rotor 9. From the central contact it passes through the noise suppression resistor 14 to the outer contact 15 of the rotor. From the outer contact of the rotor to the side electrodes 10. From the side electrodes to the high-voltage wires and further to the spark plugs. An electrical breakdown forms between the electrodes of the spark plugs. A spark occurs, which ignites the air-fuel mixture.
3. Arrangement of ignition system elements
Ignition coil type 27.3705 with open magnetic circuit, oil-filled, sealed. Coils filled with compound are used less often. The resistance of the primary winding at 25 o C should be 0.45 ± 0.05 Ohm, the secondary winding - 5 ± 0.5 kOhm.
Rice. 2. Ignition coil.
1 - insulator, 2 - housing, 3 - insulating paper of windings, 4 - primary winding, 5 - secondary winding, 6 - primary winding output terminal (designations "1", "-", "K"), 7 - contact screw, 8 - central terminal for high voltage wire, 9 - cover, 10 - power supply terminal (designations “+B”, “B”, “+”, “15”), 11 - contact spring, 12 - fastening bracket, 13 - external magnetic circuit, 14 - core.
The ignition coil functions as a high voltage pulse generator. It works on the principle of a transformer, has a secondary winding - a thin wire with a large number of turns, wound on an iron core, and a primary winding - a thick wire with a small number of turns, wound on top of the secondary winding. When current passes through the primary winding of the coil, a magnetic field is created in it. When the circuit of the primary winding is opened by the commutator, the magnetic flux also stops, as a result of which a voltage is induced in both windings, which in the secondary winding is at least 20 kV, and in the primary winding no more than 500 V.
Is it possible to use a coil from a contact ignition system (VAZ 2101 - 2107) for a contactless ignition system? It’s possible, but you won’t be able to get high ignition energy, because “classic” coils have a primary winding resistance of 3-3.5 Ohms, which is 6-8 times more than high-energy systems. Therefore, starting the engine may not be possible if the engine has a high compression ratio, and the air temperature is low and/or the air-fuel mixture is lean.
Coil maintenance comes down to visual inspection and resistance measurement. There should be no cracks or dents on it. To check the ignition coil windings, disconnect the wires from its contacts “B” and “K” and remove the high-voltage wire. Measure the resistance of the primary and secondary windings at 25 o C with an ohmmeter. It should be 0.45±0.05 Ohm (Fig. 3,b), secondary - 5±0.5 kOhm (Fig. 3,a). If there are cracks, mechanical damage or the winding resistance does not correspond to the specified value, replace the coil.
Rice. 3. Measuring the resistance of the ignition coil windings:
a - secondary; b - primary.
High voltage wires Ignition switches are used in the high voltage circuits of the ignition system, i.e. from the secondary winding of the ignition coil to the distributor and spark plugs. These wires have special high-voltage insulation. They not only conduct high voltage current, but also simultaneously suppress radio interference generated by the ignition system. The most widespread "Zhiguli" wires have the following design. The core of the wire, which is a cord made of flax yarn, is enclosed in a sheath made of plastic with the maximum addition of ferrite. A wire with a diameter of 0.11 mm made of an alloy of nickel and iron is wound on top of this shell, 30 turns per centimeter. On the outside, the wire has an insulating sheath made of polyvinyl chloride. The ends of the high-resistance wire are connected to brass terminal clamps located at the ends of the wires. These clips are designed to fit into ignition coils, distributors or spark plug tips.
The main thing in wires is the magnitude of the resistance distributed along the length and the magnitude of the breakdown voltage of the insulation. Depending on the value of the distributed resistance, the wire sheath has a different color.
For high-energy ignition systems (VAZ-21213, 2108), blue wires (silicone insulation) with a distributed resistance of 2.55 kOhm/m (2.28 - 2.82 kOhm/m) and a breakdown voltage of up to 30 kV are used. Foreign high-voltage wires are usually characterized by increased distributed resistance (due to more stringent requirements for suppression of radio and television interference). Their distributed resistance value can be in the range of 9-25 kOhm per meter, i.e. noticeably greater than that of our blue wires. The silicone insulation of such wires is better, the wires themselves are softer.
An increase in distributed resistance reduces the spark burning time between the spark plug electrodes (difference up to 20%) and the energy of the high-voltage pulse (up to 50%). Such a reduction can wipe out all the “reserves” in the ignition system, and starting the engine under unfavorable conditions may be difficult.
The rigidity of the wires is of great importance. The stiffer the wires (especially at low temperatures), the faster their contacts in the connections weaken. In addition, cracks are more likely to form in rigid insulation.
Diagnostics of high voltage wires. If in the dark, opening the hood with the engine running, you find “northern lights” - glowing high-voltage wires, then they need to be replaced. If you can freely touch the high-voltage wires of foreign cars with your hands, then it’s better not to touch our wires. With a conventional ignition system, “touching” can simply cause an unpleasant sensation; with high-energy ignition systems, the spark can pierce the skin, i.e., there is a high probability of electrical injury.
High-voltage wires must be clean, otherwise a conductive layer of dirt may form on the outside, which will reduce the maximum voltage in the secondary circuit. There should be no cracks or breaks on the insulation and rubber caps, which contribute to current leakage, poor starting and unstable operation of the engine. Sometimes these cracks and breaks are not visible. In order to detect them, take a piece of wire of suitable length and strip it on both sides. Connect one end to ground, and guide the other end alternately along the high-voltage wires, from beginning to end, including the rubber caps on both sides of the wires. Pass the end of this wire from above between the electrodes and around the cover 11 (Fig. 4) of the distributor, as well as along the cover 9 (Fig. 2) of the ignition coil. Attention! Do not touch contacts “B” and “K” of the coil under any circumstances. If there are cracks or breaks somewhere, then in this place a series of sparks will jump between the end of the bare wire that you are leading and, for example, the rubber cap of the third spark plug. At this moment, the engine will begin to “trouble” - run unevenly and unstably. This means that this is where the problem is. If this defect is detected, replace the defective parts of the high voltage system.
High-voltage wires can be checked for breaks with an ohmmeter by connecting it to the wire lugs.
Distributor(distributor) is shown in Fig. 4.
Rice. 4. Ignition distributor sensor 38.3706.
2 - oil deflector coupling;
3 - contactless sensor;
4 - vacuum regulator housing;
5 - membrane;
6 - vacuum regulator cover;
7 - vacuum regulator rod;
8 - support plate of the centrifugal regulator;
9 - ignition distributor rotor;
10 - side electrode with terminal;
11 - cover;
12 - central electrode with terminal;
13 - ember of the central electrode;
14 - resistor;
15 - external contact of the rotor;
16 - plate of the centrifugal regulator;
17 - weight;
18 - contactless sensor support plate; 19 - screen;
20 - body.
The ignition sensor-distributor cover is made of a special non-conductive material. It has a central electrode with a terminal, a spring-loaded corner of the central electrode and side electrodes with terminals. The cover on the sensor-distributor is secured using two spring latches located opposite each other. In order to reduce vapor condensation, ventilation of the distributor housing cavity is provided inside the cover through two small holes in the cover and at the bottom of the housing.
High voltage is supplied from the coil to the central electrode of the cover. The current passes through the spring-loaded carbon and hits the central electrode of the distributor rotor. The current then passes through the noise suppression resistor to the side electrode of the rotor. The rotor is rigidly connected to the sensor-distributor shaft. When the roller rotates, the rotor rotates with it, transmitting current to the side electrodes of the distributor cap.
Maintaining the lid involves keeping it clean both outside and inside. Use the end of a flat file to clean the side electrodes in the distributor cap. This facilitates the flow of the high-voltage pulse from the outer electrode of the rotor to the side electrode of the cover, which prevents unwanted flow elsewhere and facilitates the supply of increased voltage to the electrodes of the spark plug. It is also necessary to pay attention to the mobility of the central spring-loaded carbon electrode of the cover. There were cases when the “coal” got stuck in the hole in the cover and was no longer pressed by the spring to the central contact of the rotor. This led to the combustion of the carbon electrode and failure of the ignition system.
When servicing the ignition system, pay attention to the rotor. If necessary, wipe the central contact of the rotor with a rag soaked in gasoline, acetone or solvent, and the side contact can be cleaned with a file or sandpaper. If charring is found on the rotor, replace it.
If your noise suppression resistor burns out along the way, you can replace it with a piece of wire of a suitable length. And if the rotor has a short to ground, place a plastic bag folded in two or three layers under it. Place the rotor in place and cut off the protruding ends of the bag with a knife.
The Hall sensor is magnetoelectric, and got its name after E. Hall, an American physicist who discovered an important galvanomagnetic phenomenon in 1879. Non-contact key switches based on the Hall effect have been used quite widely abroad since the early 70s. The advantages of this switch are high reliability and durability, small dimensions, and the disadvantages are constant energy consumption and relatively high cost.
Let's consider the principle of operation of the Hall sensor. It has a slotted design. On one side of the slot there is a semiconductor through which current flows when the ignition is turned on, and on the other side there is a permanent magnet. A steel cylindrical screen with slots fits into the sensor slot. When the screen rotates, when its slits are in the gap of the sensor, the magnetic flux acts on the semiconductor with current flowing through it, and control pulses of the Hall sensor are supplied to the switch.
The Hall sensor is not serviced; the faulty one is replaced with a new one.
Checking the Hall sensor. The voltage is removed from the sensor output if there is a steel screen in its gap. If there is no screen in the gap, then the voltage at the sensor output is close to zero.
With the ignition distributor sensor removed from the engine, the sensor can be checked according to the diagram shown in Fig. 5, with a supply voltage of 8-14 V.
Slowly rotating the ignition distribution sensor shaft, measure the voltage at the sensor output with a voltmeter. It should change sharply from the minimum (no more than 0.4 V) to the maximum (no more than 3 V less than the supply voltage).
Fig. 5. Diagram for checking the Hall sensor on a removed ignition distributor.
1 - distribution sensor, 2 - 2 kOhm resistor, 3 - voltmeter.
On a car, the sensor can be checked according to the diagram shown in Fig. 6. Connect adapter connector 2 with a voltmeter between the plug connector of the ignition sensor-distributor and the connector of the wiring harness. Turn on the ignition and slowly turn the crankshaft with a special key. Use a voltmeter to check the voltage at the sensor output. It must be within the above limits.
Rice. 6. Scheme for checking the Hall sensor on a car.
1 - ignition distributor sensor, 2 - voltmeter with a scale limit of at least 15 V, 3 - Hall sensor connector.
Attention! You cannot check the operation of the Hall sensor with a tester and a light bulb! The output current of the sensor is too small to light even a 3 W lamp, and due to overload, the DC may fail.
The centrifugal (CB) regulator and vacuum regulator are used to automatically adjust the ignition timing.
The interaction of these devices ensures that the appropriate ignition timing is obtained for the currently existing crankshaft speed and engine load.
The centrifugal regulator (see Fig. 7) rotates together with the rotor of the ignition apparatus, which is located asymmetrically with cam 3 (the rotor is not in the figure).
Rice. 7. The principle of operation of the centrifugal regulator: a - static state, b - operating state.
1 - spring, 2 - weights, 3 - cam, 4 - weight axis, 5 - lower disk, b - weight pin, 7 - segment, 8 - ignition apparatus housing.
Weights 2 are installed on axles 4, mounted on the lower disk 5, rigidly connected to the axis of the regulator. Cam 3 and the upper segment 7 connected to it are placed on the distributor rotor. The upper segment is hinged to the weight 2 using a pin 6, which fits into the hole.
The regulator operates on the principle of using centrifugal forces acting on weights. As the rotor speed of the ignition apparatus increases, the weights, deflecting outward, cause the cam to rotate in the direction of rotation. The angle of rotation of the cam is determined by the balance between the centrifugal force acting on the weights and the tension force of the springs. A further increase in rotation speed leads to the fact that the state of equilibrium of these forces occurs at a different angle of rotation of the cam.
Rotating the cam in the same direction as the rotor rotates results in an earlier control pulse from the Hall sensor. Thus, the ignition timing increases and ignition occurs earlier. Reducing the rotation speed leads to a decrease in the ignition timing.
If both springs in the regulator are the same, then the ignition timing characteristic as a function of the speed is linear. If two different springs are used, then at a low rotation speed the weaker spring is extended more, and when a certain frequency is reached, the stronger spring is activated, slowing down the increase in the ignition timing. In this case, the characteristic of the latter becomes nonlinear.
The maximum ignition timing is limited mechanically as a result of limiting the rotation of the cam in the extreme position. The cam can be rotated by weights by 15-15.5 degrees relative to the roller. Accordingly, the ignition timing angle along the crankshaft will be 30-31 o, since its rotation frequency is twice as high as the rotation speed of the sensor-distributor shaft.
The vacuum regulator serves to increase the ignition timing when the engine load decreases (and vice versa). For this purpose, the vacuum created in the carburetor diffuser is used. The location of the inlet of the pipeline connecting the carburetor to the regulator is chosen so that at full load, idling and starting the engine, the vacuum does not reach the regulator or is insignificant. Due to these considerations, the inlet is located in front of the throttle valve. When the throttle valve opens, its edge passes past the inlet of the pipeline and the vacuum in it increases.
Rice. 8. Operating principle of the vacuum regulator.
a - idle speed;
The vacuum through the elastic pipeline 1 enters the vacuum chamber of the regulator, located on the left side of the diaphragm 3.
When the engine is idling, the vacuum is low and the regulator does not work (Fig. 8, a). As the load increases (i.e., as the throttle valve opens), the vacuum in the vacuum chamber of the regulator increases. Due to the pressure difference (rarefaction in the vacuum chamber and atmospheric pressure), the elastic diaphragm 3 bends to the left, overcoming the resistance of spring 2 and dragging rod 5 along with it. This rod is pivotally connected to disk 6, on which the Hall sensor is located. Moving the rod to the left (with increasing vacuum) leads to rotation of the support plate together with the Hall sensor 7 in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the screen (Fig. 8, b). There is an earlier supply of a control pulse from the Hall sensor to the switch, and, therefore, earlier ignition. The maximum rotation of the disk, and, consequently, the maximum ignition timing is limited mechanically. When the throttle valve moves to the fully open position, the vacuum decreases, spring 2 causes the diaphragm, rod and disk to move in the opposite direction, resulting in a decrease in the ignition timing (later ignition). When the throttle valve is fully open, the regulator does not work (Fig. 8, c).
Checking the central bank and vacuum regulators.
Checking the central bank of the regulator "on the go":
Remove the cover from the sensor-distributor;
Turn the rotor by hand until it stops and release;
Observe the rotor returning to its original position. If it does not return, it means the springs are stretched or torn, there is a lot of friction on the cam shaft, etc.
With the advent of various diagnostic devices on sale, it became possible to check the characteristics of regulators directly on the car. To check automatic regulators, you need to know their regulation ranges and characteristics (Fig. 9 and 10), which are usually presented in the form of diagrams (graphs) showing the change in the ignition timing angle depending on the crankshaft speed (CB regulator) and vacuum (vacuum regulator ). Before checking the regulators, the initial SOP is always checked.
To check the centrifugal regulator, you need a strobe light and a tachometer, and for a vacuum regulator, a vacuum pump.
To ensure that the characteristics of the centrifugal regulator do not overlap with the characteristics of the vacuum regulator, the vacuum hoses are disconnected and plugged (the vacuum regulator is turned off).
The operation of the centrifugal regulator is checked at several characteristic points (usually four are enough). The control points are taken to be the values of the advance angles at the rotation speed: 1000, 1500, 2500 and 3000 rpm.
Apply white paint to 4 thin lines on the crankshaft pulley every 13 mm, which correspond to 10 degrees of crankshaft rotation. These marks should be located counterclockwise from mark 4 (Fig. 13). Start the engine, point the strobe light at mark 3 (Fig. 13). Increase the crankshaft speed in steps by 500 rpm. Determine the number of degrees of ignition timing using the crankshaft pulley with marks. Don't forget to subtract the initial SOP from this value. Compare the resulting characteristic of the centrifugal ignition timing regulator with the characteristic in Fig. 9.
Rice. 9. Characteristics of the centrifugal regulator of the ignition sensor-distributor.
A - ignition timing angle (degrees), N - crankshaft pulley rotation frequency (rpm).
If the characteristic differs from the one given, then it can be brought back to normal by bending the spring struts of the centrifugal regulator. Up to 3000 rpm, bend the strut with a thin spring, and above 3000 rpm - with a thick one. To decrease the angle, increase the spring tension, and to increase it, decrease it.
To measure the characteristics of the vacuum ignition timing regulator, connect the vacuum regulator fitting to the vacuum pump. Turn on the engine and set the crankshaft speed to 2000 rpm. Point the strobe light beam at mark 3 (Fig. 13). Smoothly increasing the vacuum. Every 26.7 hPa, note the number of degrees of ignition timing relative to the original value. Compare the resulting characteristic with the characteristic in Fig. 10. Pay attention to the clear return after removing the vacuum to the original position of the plate on which the contactless sensor is attached. Malfunction of the vacuum regulator most often occurs due to wear of the bearing of its movable plate.
Rice. 10. Characteristics of the vacuum regulator of the ignition sensor-distributor.
A - ignition timing angle (degrees), P - vacuum (hPa).
If you do not have a vacuum pump, then to check the vacuum regulator, use the link from Egor
Spark plugs installed on the engine - A17DVR, A17DVRM with an interference suppression resistor and a gap between the electrodes of 0.7-0.8 mm.
One of the most important elements that determine the quality of engine operation is the spark plugs. The condition of the spark plug determines the quality of engine starting, the stability of its operation at idle, the car’s throttle response, the maximum achievable speed, and fuel consumption.
Ignition of the air-fuel mixture occurs as follows. High voltage across the electrodes ionizes the space between them and causes a spark to jump. The spark heats a certain small volume of the mixture to the ignition temperature. The flame then spreads throughout the entire volume of the combustion chamber. Under normal conditions (mixture composition, pressure, humidity, temperature), very little energy and a “breakdown” voltage of no more than 10 kV are required to ignite the mixture. In order to obtain more reliable ignition of the mixture under any conditions, high-energy ignition systems are used (the energy is increased by 100 times or more, the “breakdown” voltage is up to 25 kV).
The working conditions of the candle are very stressful. When the engine is running, it comes into contact with combustion products at temperatures up to 2700 o C and pressure 5...6 MPa (50...60 kgf/cm 2). In the combustion chamber, the temperature of the gas environment ranges from 70 to 2000...2700 o C. The air in the engine compartment surrounding the insulator can have a temperature from -60 to +80 o C.
With all this, the temperature of the lower part of the insulator for modern spark plugs should be in the range of 400-900 o C (previously 500-600 o C). Range 400-900 o C - thermal limits of performance (self-cleaning and overheating temperatures) of spark plugs.
At temperatures below 400 o C, even with normal mixture composition, oil seals and rings, carbon deposits are possible on the thermal cone. At times there will be no spark between the electrodes at all - there will be interruptions in the operation of the engine.
At a heat cone temperature of more than 900 o C, the working mixture is ignited not by a spark, but by contact with a hot insulator, electrodes, or particles of burnt soot. In this case, glow ignition occurs. The engine continues to “run” even when the ignition is turned off. Due to overheating, the electrodes and insulator begin to burn out (melt), and erosion of the housing end appears. The heat transfer of a spark plug is determined by a number of parameters: the length of the thread and the thermal cone, the gap between the thermal cone and the body, the length of the upper part of the insulator and the ribs (grooves) on it, the thermal conductivity of the materials (insulator, electrodes, body, etc.).
The heat output of a candle is characterized by its heat rating (included in the designation of the candle). The heat number conventionally means the time in seconds, after which a glow ignition occurs on a spark plug installed on a special engine (operating in a certain mode), i.e., ignition of the working mixture not from a spark, but from a red-hot insulator, electrodes, or housing.
The decoding of the designation of candles is as follows: A - thread M14x1.25-be; the number after the letter is the heat number; letters after the number D - thread length 19 mm (“long thread”); B - thermal cone protruding beyond the end; The serial number of the development is indicated through a dash.
Foreign analogues for spark plugs А17ДВР, А17ДВРМ - Bosch WR7DC, Brisk LR15TC, Champion RN9YC, Motor Kraft AG252, NGK BP6ES, Beru Z20.
You cannot install spark plugs with a short thread instead of spark plugs with a long thread.
Before unscrewing the candle, unscrew it so that it remains screwed in by 1-2 threads of its thread. Blow out the spark plug seat with compressed air. After that, turn it completely out.
Carry out diagnostics that can tell you almost everything about the condition of the engine. The reason for inspecting spark plugs, in addition to regular maintenance, is usually deviations in engine operation. The structure of a conventional spark plug is shown in Fig. eleven.
Rice. 11. Main elements of a spark plug:
1 - thread;
2 - end of the body (rim);
3 - side electrode;
4 - central electrode;
5 - thermal cone of the insulator ("skirt").
Everything is fine if: thread 1 is dry and not wet; rim 2 - dark with a thin layer of soot (soot); the color of electrodes 3, 4 and insulator 5 is from light brown to light yellow, light gray, whitish.
Malfunctions are indicated by: wet threads (gasoline, oil); the rim is covered with black loose soot with spots; the electrodes and insulator are dark brown with spots, sometimes there is a yellow spot on the bend of the side electrode.
A non-working spark plug will have its rim, electrodes and insulator cone covered with soot and wet. If the spark plug is leaking, a dark rim appears on the outside of the insulator near the metal body.
If the body, insulator and electrodes are covered with black soot, then possible reasons: prolonged idling, over-enrichment of the mixture, violation of the gaps between the electrodes of the spark plug, faulty spark plug.
Oily candle. If the engine has a high mileage and all the spark plugs are in approximately the same condition, wear on the cylinders, pistons, and rings is most likely to blame. Oil may appear during the engine break-in period, but this phenomenon is temporary.
If oil is found on one spark plug, the exhaust valve is most likely burnt. In this case, the engine idles unevenly. It is better not to delay repairs, as the seat behind the valve may burn.
Burnt out or heavily corroded electrodes, a belt, and an ulcerated thermal insulator cone indicate overheating of the spark plug. Overheating occurs when using low-octane gasoline, incorrect ignition timing, or a too lean mixture.
Melted electrodes, damaged thermal insulator cone - ignition too early.
By swapping the candles, you can learn something more. If the spark plug continues to become overgrown with carbon deposits in the other cylinder, it means it is faulty. And if a normal spark plug from an adjacent cylinder in a given cylinder is covered with soot, like the previous one, then there is a malfunction in the crank mechanism of the cylinder.
Installing spark plugs in a rational position allows you to improve the combustion process without doing practically anything. To do this, before installing new spark plugs, you need to make a mark with a marker on the top of the spark plug opposite the side electrode and on the spark plug wrench. Align the marks and wrap the candle as shown in fig. 12. The choice of spark plug position when tightening is determined by the permissible torque - 30.6-39 N.m.
Rice. 12. Irrational (left) and rational position of the spark plug (right).
A rational position has a more favorable effect on the stable operation of the engine at idle, power, and efficiency. In an irrational position, carbon deposits cover all the walls of the combustion chamber; in a rational position, carbon deposits form only on the edge of the piston bottom.
Some owners are interested in spark plugs with three electrodes. There is an opinion that a firework of sparks is immediately formed on a candle with three electrodes. Unfortunately, this is not the case - only one. High voltage will only break through the air gap between the central and side electrodes, which has the smallest distance between the electrodes and, accordingly, resistance. Meanwhile, other electrodes actually prevent the flame from spreading properly and impair the cooling of the heat cone.
For new or cleaned spark plugs, use a round feeler gauge to check the gap between the spark plug electrodes; it should be 0.7-0.8 mm. If the gap is not correct, adjust it by bending the center electrode. Screw the spark plugs in by hand a few turns. Use a spark plug wrench to tighten the spark plugs. Its size is ~20.6 mm (20.638 mm = 13/16 inches).
Restoration of threads in the cylinder head.
It happens that, due to misalignment, the candle does not follow the thread, and three or four threads in the socket are damaged. Then the spark plug cannot be screwed in correctly. In order to correct the thread, take an M14x1.25 spark plug tap, coat it thickly with lithol and “drive” the thread. Screw the tap very carefully, by hand onto the first threads of the thread.
To restore completely damaged threads, special repair inserts are sold that are similar to a regular spring. Screw the insert to the required length, cut off the excess part with wire cutters.
Now, in both cases, you can wrap the candle. These methods will avoid costly repairs involving removing the cylinder head, saving time and money.
The switch serves to interrupt the current in the primary circuit of the ignition coil based on control pulses from the Hall sensor. The switch circuit contains a device for automatically regulating the period of current accumulation in the ignition coil depending on the crankshaft speed. The magnitude of the current pulses is 8-9 A. In addition, there is an automatic shutdown of the current through the ignition coil when the engine is not running but the ignition is on. After 2-5 seconds, after stopping the engine, the output transistor turns off, without creating a spark on the spark plugs. A switch is a complex electronic device containing a microcircuit, a powerful output transistor, zener diodes, capacitors, and resistors. If it fails, it is not repaired and replaced with a new one.
4. Removal and installation of the ignition distributor. Replacing the Hall sensor.
If you want to remove the ignition distributor sensor to replace the Hall sensor, I recommend that you first remove the cover from the distributor and see which sensor is installed in the distributor, domestic or imported. And only then go to the store to buy a sensor. The fact is that our and imported sensors are not compatible in terms of fastenings, so they are not interchangeable. If you have an imported Hall sensor, but you cannot buy it in the store, then buy a domestic Hall sensor along with a support plate.
Attention! Hall sensor 2108-09 is not interchangeable with Hall sensor 21213!
Rice. 13. Location of marks for installing the ignition:
1 - ignition timing mark by 10 o,
2 - ignition timing mark by 5 o,
3 - ignition timing mark at 0 o,
4 - TDC mark of the pistons of the first and fourth cylinders on the crankshaft pulley.
Reassemble in reverse order.
If the engine is reluctant or does not start at all, turn the distributor sensor counterclockwise - clockwise and try again.
5. What is UOP and what does it affect. Installation of UOZ.
Ignition of the fuel mixture must occur during the compression stroke, before top dead center. The angle between the position of the crankshaft at the moment the spark appears and its position at TDC on the compression stroke is called the ignition timing angle (IAF).
This angle must be such that, under given engine operating conditions, maximum power is provided with the least fuel consumption. The initial ignition timing must be set with maximum accuracy. Otherwise, deviations at high crankshaft rotation speeds increase sharply, power decreases, thermal conditions deteriorate, fuel consumption and CO content increase, and detonation knocks occur, which are not always audible.
Rice. 14. Ignition timing.
a - up to TDC;
c - behind TDC;
TDC - top dead center;
"+" - ignition timing;
"-" - ignition retardation.
Setting the ignition timing is the possibility of igniting the mixture at a certain position of the piston relative to TDC. The moment of ignition of the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber is the moment a spark forms between the electrodes of the spark plug.
Since it is easier to navigate by the crankshaft (pulley), it is customary to evaluate ignition before TDC (advance), at TDC and beyond TDC (lag) in angular degrees along the crankshaft with a “+” or “-” sign. For 1.7 l and 1.8 l engines, the SOP should be 1 ± 1 degree, at a crankshaft speed of 750-800 rpm. You can most accurately set the OZ using a strobe light. For better visibility, the crankshaft pulley mark can be marked with white paint using a needle or toothpick. Direct the flashing stream of light to mark 4 (Fig. 13) of the crankshaft pulley, which, with the ignition timing correctly set at idle speed of the engine, should be located on the front engine cover closer to mark 3. If the marks do not match, loosen the nut securing the distributor sensor and turn it to the required angle. To increase the SOP (towards the “+”), the housing of the sensor-distributor must be turned counterclockwise, and to decrease it (towards the “-”) - clockwise. Check the OZ again. Tighten the nut securing the distributor sensor.
For gasoline with an octane number of 95, the OZ is set higher than for AI-92 (i.e. earlier).
6. Non-contact and contact ignition systems
The main advantages of contactless systems relative to contact systems are obvious.
Firstly, the breaker contacts do not burn (as with KSZ) and do not become dirty (as with KSZ). There is no need to set the ignition timing for a long time; the angle of the closed (open) state of the contacts is not controlled or adjusted, since there are simply no contacts. As a result, the engine does not lose power.
Secondly, since there is no opening of the contacts by the cam and there is no beating or vibration of the distributor rotor, the uniformity of spark distribution among the cylinders is not disturbed.
Thirdly, the increased discharge energy in the spark plug during BTSZ reliably ensures ignition of the air-fuel mixture in the engine cylinders. This is especially important during acceleration, when the conditions for ignition of the mixture are unfavorable due to its temporary depletion, which is not compensated by the accelerator pump. The CO content in the exhaust gases is reduced by approximately 20% and fuel consumption by 5%.
Fourthly, it ensures a reliable start of a cold engine at low temperatures when the voltage drops to 6 V.
Converting a contact SZ to a non-contact one is simple. Need to buy:
Ignition distributor sensor 21213-3706010;
Ignition coil (for 2108);
Switch (for 2108);
Spark plugs with a gap of 0.7-0.8 mm;
EPHH control unit (marking "5013");
Wiring harness distributor-switch 21213-3724026.
Reinstall all parts. Lay the harness next to the main, standard electrical wiring harness. Connect the new wiring harness:
Blue and black wire - to terminal “B” of the ignition coil;
Red with brown - to terminal “K” of the ignition coil;
Black wire - to ground under the switch mounting nut;
Gray and red wire - to the carburetor EM valve;
Disconnect the two-pin connector (located between the battery and the coil) and connect the mating part of the connector from the new harness.
After installation, start the engine and set the OZ to 1±1 degrees.
7. Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them. Precautions and maintenance of the ignition system
Causes of malfunction
Remedy
Engine won't start
secure with new rivets.
check the wires and their connections; replace damaged wires
switch is faulty
replace the resistor
ignition coil damaged
replace the ignition coil
Replace the spark plugs with new ones
Check
3. Screen play
Eliminate backlash
Replace the contact angle
Clean the center contact
Replace rotor or cover
Adjust ignition timing
Check the switch using an oscilloscope, replace the faulty switch
The tachometer needle "jumps".
The switch is faulty.
Replace the switch
Adjust OZ
Spark plugs are faulty
Replace spark plugs
High fuel consumption
Ignition installed incorrectly
Adjust OZ
Centrifugal and/or vacuum regulators do not work or work incorrectly
Check regulators. If they appear to be in good working order, check their characteristics on a diagnostic stand
Spark plugs are faulty
Replace spark plugs
Backfires on startup
Adjust OZ
The engine gets very hot
Ignition installed incorrectly
Adjust OZ
Spontaneous ignition
Ignition installed incorrectly
Adjust OZ
Unsuitable candles
Replace spark plugs
Replace faulty parts
Low octane gasoline
Drain gasoline, fill with new
8. The engine does not start. Diagnostics and troubleshooting.
Let's consider two malfunctions: the engine does not start and the engine stops while driving. Let us immediately agree that:
If the engine power system is working properly and there is a spark at the spark plugs, but the engine does not start, check the compression and valve timing.
9. Diagnostics of the ignition system according to the manual.
Causes of malfunction
Remedy
Engine won't start
1. The switch does not receive voltage pulses from the contactless sensor:
break in the wires between the ignition distributor sensor and the switch
check the wires and their connections; replace damaged wires
sensor wire short to ground
repair the short circuit or replace the sensor
screen torn from base plate
secure with new rivets.
contactless sensor is faulty
check the sensor using an adapter connector and a voltmeter; faulty sensor replace
2. No current pulses are supplied to the primary winding of the ignition coil:
a break in the wires connecting the switch to the switch or to the ignition coil
check the wires and their connections; replace damaged wires
switch is faulty
check the switch with an oscilloscope; replace faulty switch
Ignition switch or relay does not work
check, replace the faulty contact part of the switch or ignition relay
3. High voltage is not supplied to the spark plugs:
the tips of the high voltage wires are torn off or oxidized or their insulation is damaged
check and restore connections, clean or replace wires
wear or damage to the contact carbon, its hanging in the cover of the ignition sensor-distributor
check and, if necessary, replace the contact angle
current leakage through cracks or burnouts in the cover or rotor of the ignition distributor, through carbon deposits or moisture on the inner surface of the cover
check, clean the cover from moisture and carbon deposits, replace the cover and rotor if they have cracks
burnout of the resistor in the rotor of the ignition distributor sensor
replace the resistor
ignition coil damaged
replace the ignition coil
4. The spark plug electrodes are oily or the gap between them is not normal.
Clean the spark plugs and adjust the gap between the electrodes
5. Spark plugs are damaged (crack on the insulator)
Replace the spark plugs with new ones
6. The order of connecting the high voltage wires to the terminals of the ignition sensor-distributor cover is violated
Connect the wires in firing order 1-3-4-2
7. Incorrect ignition timing
Check and adjust ignition timing
The engine runs rough or stalls at idle.
1. Ignition in engine cylinders is too early
Check and adjust ignition timing
2. Large gap between spark plug electrodes
Check and adjust the gap between the electrodes
The engine runs unevenly and unstably at high crankshaft speeds.
1. The springs of the weights of the ignition timing regulator in the ignition distributor sensor have weakened
Replace the springs, check the operation of the centrifugal regulator on the stand
2. The connector blocks of the Hall sensor and switch are poorly connected, the terminals in the connectors are oxidized
Check connections, clean contacts.
3. Screen play
Eliminate backlash
Interruptions in engine operation in all modes.
1. The wires in the ignition system are damaged, the fastening of the wires is loose or their tips are oxidized
Check the wires and their connections. Replace damaged wires
2. Wear of electrodes or oiling of spark plugs, significant carbon deposits; cracks in spark plug insulator
Check the spark plugs, adjust the gap between the electrodes, replace damaged spark plugs
3. Wear or damage to the contact carbon in the ignition sensor-distributor cover
Replace the contact angle
4. Severe burning of the central contact of the ignition sensor-distributor rotor
Clean the center contact
5. Cracks, dirt or burns in the rotor or cover of the ignition distributor sensor
Replace rotor or cover
6. The switch is faulty - the shape of the pulses on the primary winding of the ignition coil does not correspond to the norm
Check the switch using an oscilloscope, replace the faulty switch
The engine does not develop full power and does not have sufficient throttle response.
1. Incorrect ignition timing
Adjust ignition timing
2. Jamming of the weights of the ignition timing regulator, weakening of the springs of the weights
Check and replace damaged parts
3. The switch is faulty - the shape of the pulses on the primary winding of the ignition coil does not correspond to the norm
Check the switch using an oscilloscope, replace the faulty switch
The tachometer needle "jumps".
Poor contact in the connectors of the switch, Hall sensor, one edge of the connector has come off.
Eliminate bad contact. Connect the connectors correctly.
The switch is faulty.
Replace the switch
The engine produces knocking noises during acceleration and at high speeds.
Ignition installed incorrectly
Adjust OZ
Centrifugal and/or vacuum regulators do not work or work incorrectly
Check regulators. If they appear to be in good working order, check their characteristics on a diagnostic stand
Spark plugs are faulty
Replace spark plugs
High fuel consumption
Ignition installed incorrectly
Adjust OZ
Centrifugal and/or vacuum regulators do not work or work incorrectly
Check regulators. If they appear to be in good working order, check their characteristics on a diagnostic stand
Spark plugs are faulty
Replace spark plugs
Backfires on startup
Incorrectly installed OZ, ignition too early
Adjust OZ
The engine gets very hot
Ignition installed incorrectly
Adjust OZ
Centrifugal or vacuum regulator does not work
Check the serviceability of the regulators
Spontaneous (glow) ignition
Ignition installed incorrectly
Adjust OZ
Unsuitable candles
Replace spark plugs
The EPHH control unit and/or the EM valve is faulty
Replace faulty parts
Low octane gasoline
Drain gasoline, fill with new
Attention! The vehicle uses a high energy ignition system with extensive use of electronics. Therefore, in order to avoid injury or damage electronic components, the following rules must be observed. When the engine is running, do not touch the ignition system elements (switch, ignition coil and high-voltage wires).
Do not start the engine using the spark gap and do not check the functionality of the ignition system “for spark” between the tips of the spark plug wires and ground.
Do not lay low voltage wires of the ignition system in the same bundle with high voltage wires.
Ensure that the connection to the switch ground is secure through the fastening screws. This affects its smooth operation.
When the ignition is on, do not disconnect the wires from the terminals of the battery and do not disconnect the plug connector from the switch, as this may cause increased voltage on individual elements of its system and it will be damaged.
Leave an online request for the service and we will contact you to clarify details
Unpretentiousness, ease of maintenance and maintainability are a well-known advantage of all carburetor engines that were installed on cars of the VAZ family, including the entire Niva model range. But here also lies their main drawback, namely the need for periodic manual adjustments. For example, after repairs or when changing the octane number of the fuel used, the driver is required to use a VAZ Niva car (carburetor), while injection systems do not require such manipulations.
Due to an incorrectly set ignition timing, the engine begins to operate incorrectly and its power decreases. Timely adoption of measures to install the ignition on a VAZ-21213 Niva with a carburetor engine can eliminate the problem. If you decide to make all the adjustments yourself, you can also save on the services of a specialist. To do this, you just need to read the guide below.
Most accurately, 21213 (carburetor) can be performed using a strobe light. However, this is not the only method available in garage conditions, especially since many car enthusiasts do not have this device at their disposal and do not intend to buy it. Therefore, we will consider two ways to set the optimal ignition timing.
First, let's focus on adjustment using a strobe light. Prepare a “13” wrench and, in fact, the strobe itself for the upcoming work. If everything is ready, you can begin to perform the adjustment operations, following the step-by-step instructions, but first we will make a reservation that for correct adjustment the engine must be warmed up and the carburetor must be properly adjusted. So, the procedure is as follows:
This is exactly how the VAZ-21213 (carburetor) is produced using a device such as a strobe light. With its help, you can adjust the moment of ignition of the working mixture no worse than a qualified car service specialist. Next we will consider an option that does not require the use of this device.
This adjustment method does not require the purchase of additional equipment and at the same time allows for fairly accurate adjustments. If it suits you, then before you start adjusting the ignition of the VAZ-21213 (carburetor), prepare a 12 V test light by first soldering it to its contacts along the conductor. And you will also need a “13” wrench and a wrench to manually rotate the crankshaft. During the setup process, follow the sequence of steps described below:
By the way, this method of ignition adjustment is suitable for most domestic vehicles with a carburetor engine, including cars of the UAZ family.
Once the adjustment work is completed, the 21213 will be a good idea to take on the road. To do this, accelerate the car to a speed of 50 km/h, engage fourth gear and press the accelerator pedal all the way. If at this moment you hear quiet detonation sounds, it means that the moment of ignition of the working mixture is set correctly. The absence of sounds indicates late ignition, and if they are too loud, then the timing is too early. In each of these two cases, you will have to re-configure.
This article describes the two most common ways to set the ignition timing, but they are not the only ones. For example, experienced craftsmen are able to make adjustments based on their own hearing. However, this method is only available to those who thoroughly know how to set the ignition on the Niva 21213 (carburetor) and perform such work regularly. For a simple car enthusiast, it will be enough to arm yourself with the above material to achieve a decent result.
As you know, engine performance is largely determined by the state of operation of the ignition system. Problems in the functioning of the latter can lead to the motor starting to work intermittently. From this material you can learn how to adjust the Niva with your own hands, as well as what needs to be taken into account during this process.
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On models it is set as follows:
Unpretentiousness, ease of maintenance and maintainability are a well-known advantage of all carburetor engines that were installed on cars of the VAZ family, including the entire Niva model range. But here also lies their main drawback, namely the need for periodic manual adjustments. For example, after repairs or when changing the octane number of the fuel used, the driver is required to install the ignition on a VAZ Niva car (carburetor), while injection systems do not require such manipulations.
Installing the ignition on the Niva eliminates the problem of incorrect engine operation
Due to an incorrectly set ignition timing, the engine begins to operate incorrectly and its power decreases. Timely adoption of measures to install the ignition on a VAZ-21213 Niva with a carburetor engine can eliminate the problem. If you decide to make all the adjustments yourself, you can also save on the services of a specialist. To do this, you just need to read the guide below.
The most accurate adjustment of the ignition 21213 (carburetor) can be performed using a strobe light. However, this is not the only method available in garage conditions, especially since many car enthusiasts do not have this device at their disposal and do not intend to buy it. Therefore, we will consider two ways to set the optimal ignition timing.
First, let's focus on adjustment using a strobe light. Prepare a “13” wrench and, in fact, the strobe itself for the upcoming work. If everything is ready, you can begin to perform the adjustment operations, following the step-by-step instructions, but first we will make a reservation that for correct adjustment the engine must be warmed up and the carburetor must be properly adjusted. So, the procedure is as follows:
To adjust the ignition correctly, the engine must be warmed up. 
Using a strobe, you can adjust the moment of ignition of the working mixture very accurately This is exactly how the VAZ-21213 ignition (carburetor) is installed using a device such as a strobe. With its help, you can adjust the moment of ignition of the working mixture no worse than a qualified car service specialist. Next we will consider an option that does not require the use of this device.
This adjustment method does not require the purchase of additional equipment and at the same time allows for fairly accurate adjustments. If it suits you, then before you start adjusting the ignition of the VAZ-21213 (carburetor), prepare a 12 V test light by first soldering it to its contacts along the conductor. And you will also need a “13” wrench and a wrench to manually rotate the crankshaft. During the setup process, follow the sequence of steps described below:
Adjusting the ignition timing according to the light bulb must be done with the engine turned off. 
After adjustment work, it is necessary to check the operation of the Niva ignition system on the road By the way, this method of ignition adjustment is suitable for most domestic vehicles with a carburetor engine, including cars of the UAZ family.
After completing the adjustment work, it would be useful to check the operation of the ignition system of model 21213 on the road. To do this, accelerate the car to a speed of 50 km/h, engage fourth gear and press the accelerator pedal all the way. If at this moment you hear quiet detonation sounds, it means that the moment of ignition of the working mixture is set correctly. The absence of sounds indicates late ignition, and if they are too loud, then the timing is too early. In each of these two cases, you will have to re-configure.
This article describes the two most common ways to set the ignition timing, but they are not the only ones. For example, experienced craftsmen are able to make adjustments based on their own hearing. However, this method is only available to those who thoroughly know how to set the ignition on the Niva 21213 (carburetor) and perform such work regularly. For a simple car enthusiast, it will be enough to arm yourself with the above material to achieve a decent result.
carextra.ru
As you know, engine performance is largely determined by the state of operation of the ignition system. Problems in the functioning of the latter can lead to the motor starting to work intermittently. From this material you can learn how to remove the ignition switch on a Niva with your own hands and adjust it, as well as what needs to be taken into account during this process.
Ignition system module for Niva Before removing the ignition module on a VAZ 21213 carburetor or injector, it is necessary to diagnose the ignition coil, distributor and spark plugs. As practice shows, spark plugs are often the cause of incorrect operation of the internal combustion engine. If you are sure that the problem lies in the fault, then the installed device will need to be changed.
How to replace the Niva ignition switch:
After installing and connecting all components, you need to diagnose the functionality of the module:
Now we suggest you find out how to set the ignition on a Niva.
On VAZ 21214, 2131 models, electronic ignition is set as follows:
If you do not understand how to adjust the torque, read the more detailed instructions in the video below (author - Nail Poroshin).
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VAZ (Lada) 2121 (4x4) 1993 - present
How to set the ignition on a Niva (VAZ 2121)?
Popular questions
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Service and operation
Manuals ￫ VAZ ￫ 21213 (Niva)
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Adjusting the electric ignition of a VAZ 2106 - YouTube
You need to say "how set the ignition on VAZ 2106” this is a fairly common question. Installing the ignition on the VAZ 2106 will be necessary if the engine begins to noticeably “rumble” and shake. This article will discuss how expose ignition on a VAZ 2101-2102 car. Adjusting the ignition of the VAZ 2106 begins with adjusting the angle of the closed state of the contacts. Now that the ignition moment of the VAZ 2106 has been set, you can collect everything and rejoice at a job well done.
Correctly set ignition- the key to proper operation of the engine and its trouble-free start. The ignition is set for the first or fourth cylinder; now we will look at the first option. The ignition timing of the VAZ 2106 is set according to the marks on the timing cover; there are three marks there, a small medium one and a long one.
4. Unfasten the latches, then remove the ignition distributor cover. 9. After this preparation, you can proceed specifically to the ignition adjustment procedure. 10. Connect the control as follows: one end to the terminal of the ignition coil connected to the low-voltage wire of the distributor, the other end is connected to ground.
After the ignition is set, you need to check the correctness. 4. If detonation appears and does not disappear as the car accelerates, we can assume that the ignition is premature. If you don't experience detonation at all, ignition- Later. In case of pre-ignition, turn the distributor clockwise approximately 0.5-1 notch.
Another of the methods expose ignition on your beloved Auto. For those who are on our channel for the first time, we also recommend watching the video “Installing the ignition” at any time. This video shows how to set and adjust the ignition using the most common method in the field. Correctly set ignition is the key to good engine performance, good dynamic characteristics, and low fuel consumption!
Creator: Valera Potapenko vk.com/id66558974 Send videos by email: [email protected] Or contact...
Dear subscribers I bow somewhat lowly, to Sergei, aka KORSUN STUDIO, for his selfless help in the layout of my...
How to do this and what is needed for this is in the article. This system has an engine control unit, which, judging by the indicators from the phase sensor and crankshaft position sensor, supplies voltage to the ignition system. Naturally, if the engine does not start, then set the ignition– this is the first thing that comes to mind if the candles are naturally wet.
With late ignition, the explosion follows the piston, which has already gone down under the influence of the inertia of the flywheel. The first mark in the direction of travel is an advance of the ignition angle by 10 degrees. Well, now let’s move specifically to the ignition installation of the VAZ 2106. Unscrew the distributor mount (nut 13), then pull it out of the housing. Next, to set the ignition to 2106, you need to draw an imaginary line between the roof latches and install the distributor in place so that this line is parallel to the engine block.
Set the ignition- this is half the battle, since further it needs to be regulated. This is normal, this is how it should be. If it passes within 4-5 seconds, then the next ignition adjustment is not required. You need to create an UZSK adjustment in this case if you are using a traditional or transistor ignition system.
If the car is equipped with a classic ignition system, then before starting the adjustment, it is advisable to clean the contacts of the distributor with a file. The light will light up if the ignition is on and the distributor contacts themselves are open, and go out when they are closed. Loosen the bolt that secures the distributor housing, then turn on the ignition.
Before you start setting the ignition, you need to check the spark plugs; if carbon deposits are found on the spark plugs, it is advisable to replace them. Malfunctions of the car ignition system. Set the correct ignition value of the contact closed state angle (UZSK). After completing two steps, be sure to check the ignition while the car is moving.
Most owners of VAZ cars, which are commonly called “classics,” encounter frequent problems with ignition. If you are tired of repairing your factory ignition system on your VAZ 2106, then think about installing a contactless ignition system that will solve most of your problems.
In this article we will tell you and show you how to install contactless electronic ignition on a VAZ 2101 with your own hands. First, you will need to install the ignition mark. This indicates that the ignition is too early. Therefore, it is impossible to adjust the ignition on the injector.
